India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [525]
From Thanedar you can either backtrack to Narkanda or continue farther on the Narkanda-Thanedar road which meets the highway at Bithal, 21km (13 miles) from the retreat.
Another overnight option along the way to Sangla (and in many ways, a more interesting choice), is Sarahan, especially good if you have any desire to witness the early morning ceremonies (not always guaranteed) at the Bhimakali Temple. Traditionally, just about the only half-decent place to stay has been the half-baked government-run Hotel Shrikhand ( 01782/27-4234; www.hptdc.nic.in), a concrete monstrosity with an out-of-this-world setting and low rates (the disgusting, viewless cheap room goes for Rs 500, while slightly better doubles with balconies are Rs 1,400). You’ll be able to console yourself over the state of the room thanks to the incredible views, but for the best room deal, book a deluxe room in the cottage (Rs 1,500), which gets you a spacious, high-ceilinged room in a separate block with a fireplace, television, and enclosed porch/sitting room. The hotel has a really slack restaurant, but it’s probably the most hygienic place in town. Far better, though, if you want to stay in Sarahan, is to forgo the cliff-edge views and rather try The Wild Side Retreat ( 94-1800-0056 or 98-1720-0002; www.wildside.in), situated a few miles back down the road to Jeori. Occupying a restored traditional teakwood building set among the apple orchards, the 10 rooms (renovated in 2009) here are simple, but neat, and are suite-sized; far and away your best option anywhere near Sarahan—certainly they’re the cleanest and best-maintained. There’s also a cozy lounge and terrace restaurant. A night for two, with all meals costs Rs 4,400, and your host can supply guides for local treks (Rs 300 per day). The owners are committed to eco-friendly principles and organize treks and overnight camping in the nearby wildlife sanctuaries, as well as multiday high-altitude treks in the western Himalayas.
From Sarahan, the onward journey to Sangla should take around 3–4 hr.
The Apple of His Eye
Samuel Stokes, an American who settled here in the early 1900s, is credited with bringing over and planting the region’s first apple trees. He aligned himself with the freedom movement and was highly regarded by a number of important leaders in the struggle for independence. Today, thanks to Stokes’s apple industry, the region claims to have the highest per capita income in Southeast Asia. His daughter, Vidya Stokes, is in her mid-80s and is the MP for Thanedar—a member of India’s ruling Congress Party; she’s also the leader of the opposition in BJP-led Himachal Pradesh.
Day 3 & 4: Sangla to Spiti Valley
From Sangla, head off early back to “National Highway” 22 to continue east towards Kinnaur’s main town of Recong Peo (2,670m/8,758 ft.), where you must complete the paperwork for your Inner Line Permit, which will allow you to enter and pass through the zone closest to the Tibetan border (see “Inner Line Permits,” above). If you arrive early enough (10am is a good bet) to have your Permit processed by lunchtime, you’ll be able to press on to Spiti the same day (although it’s a tricky 6-hr. drive). Most people choose to let the bureaucratic wheels run while spending the night in the village of Kalpa (2,960m/9,709 ft.), well worth a visit for its crisp, clear air and view across the valley of the majestic Kinner-Kailash massif; it’s a 20-minute drive up the mountain above Recong Peo. Hotel Kinner Villa ( 01786/22-6006; www.kinnervilla.freehostia.com; doubles Rs 1,300–Rs 1,600 plus 10% tax) is the best place to stay (well at least service is a notch better given that it is privately run), with simple, clean, and comfortable accommodations (although bathrooms are basic and tiny). Rooms 201 and 208 have the most exquisite views;