India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [526]
Set out from Kalpa/Recong Peo either the moment you have your permit, or—if you’ve decided to stay in Kalpa for the night—early the following day; once you pass the first Inner Line checkpoint (in 2009 this was at Spillo, but in 2010 may shift 9km/5 1⁄2 miles east, to Dubling), you will notice dramatic changes in the landscape, as fir trees give way to rock and stone sloping up toward distant summits and down into the raging River Sutlej. The journey through Inner Line territory takes you past the off-limits turnoff for 5,500m-high (18,040-ft.) Shipki-La Pass, which heads into China. Nako Lake and its pretty village lie farther along (it’s the ideal spot to stretch your legs, and there are a few tented camps and other guesthouses where you could overnight if you have the time). Beyond the turnoff for Nako, the road attains its most sinister aspect as you enter the notorious section known as the Malling Slide, heavily punctuated with precipitous drops—an ideal place to strengthen your faith in the divine. However, the bypass to Malling via Nako has been operational for some time now—though not “fault” free, there is every chance that you will get through here; this road meets the highway again at Chango. Upon reaching the final Inner Line checkpoint at Sumdo—some 115km (71 miles) from Recong Peo and 363km (225 miles) from Shimla—the road heads northwest into the alien landscapes of Spiti.
Day 4, 5 & 6: The Spiti Valley
Some 6 hours from Recong Peo, the Buddhist village of Tabo (365km/226 miles from Shimla) is the most frequented stop in Spiti, and for good reason. With a population of around 400, this Buddhist settlement, situated at 3,050m (10,004 ft.) in lower Spiti, is centered around its celebrated 1,000-year-old monastic complex. It’s the oldest continuously functioning Buddhist monastery in India and said to be the place where the present Dalai Lama will “retire.” A serene village of flat-roofed houses topped by thatch packed with branches, mud, and grass, Tabo has as its obvious focus its monastery, or “doctrinal enclave.” This consists of nine temple buildings, chambers for monks and nuns, 23 snow-white chortens, and piles of stones, each inscribed with scripture. We recommend you stay at Dewachen Retreats ( 01906/22-3301, 94-1836-3999, or 98-1709-1312; rajinertabo@yahooo.com; open May–Oct), certainly the cleanest guesthouse in the village. There are eight double rooms (Rs 4,000 including all meals; 10% tax extra), most of which have views over Tabo’s cultivated fields, and one viewless family suite (Rs 7,000 for four people). Rooms are fairly basic, but very neat and clean, with tiled bathrooms, wardrobe space, reading lights, thick duvets, and hot water bottles just in case. The manager will organize guides for sightseeing and can arrange various kinds of excursions and adventure activities in the Valley. Many visitors traveling on a tight budget (or in town to do research at the monastery library) stay at the monastery guesthouse ( 01906/23-3313 or -3315), which is indeed cheap (Rs 300–Rs 550), but when we last stayed here found the rooms extremely dirty, with dodgy plumbing in the attached and the shared bathrooms. The Tibetan food at the guesthouse restaurant, on the other hand, is good. Another fine place to stop for a meal is the Kunzum Top Restaurant ( 94-1850-3966), where you can sit in the sun-drenched garden courtyard, or head inside for one of the low tables. Here it’s possible to sample authentic Spitian cuisine (as humble as this may be), so try the slightly nutty-tasting tsampa porridge, made