India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [527]
Not far from Tabo is the village of Dhankar, which hugs the side of a hill and offers breathtaking glimpses of the surrounding mountains and valley below—a visit to the precariously perched monastery is one of Spiti’s most exciting highlights. Visit Dhankar on your way from Tabo, and then continue on to the town of Kaza (47km/29 miles from Tabo). As the administrative headquarters of Spiti, Kaza offers little excitement (although the new Sakya Tenggyu Monastery, inaugurated in July 2009, is very beautiful), but serves as the lodging, transport and market hub for the entire region. It’s a useful base from which to visit the beautiful, fortresslike gompa of Ki and the high-altitude villages of Kibber and Comic. Kaza is also useful for treks through the Pin Valley, a national park inhabited by endangered snow leopard and Siberian ibex, as well as rare birds such as the Himalayan snow cock, snow partridge and Tibet snow finch.
Plan on spending at least 2 nights here at Kaza Retreat, another inn operated by the Banjara group (www.banjaracamps.com; doubles Rs 4,400 including all meals). The building is a bit of an eyesore at the edge of town, but accommodations are the best for miles—fairly spacious, comfortable, clean, and with attached bathrooms (and round-the-clock hot water). A great option if you’d rather not stay in Kaza (which has a problem with dogs howling all through the night), is Spiti Sarai ( 01906/22-2670 or 94-1843-9247; loteykaza@yahoo.co.in), which sits on a large plot a few miles north of Kaza, and has double rooms from Rs 2,200 including all meals. You can book through their office (Spiti Holiday Adventures) in Kaza’s Main bazaar, or Waymark Adventures in New Delhi ( 011/2891-5686 or 98-1130-1228; waymark@vsnl.com).
Day 7: The Final Stretch
North of Spiti is Lahaul. Linked to the rest of Himachal by the Rohtang Pass, dotted with villages of flat-roofed houses, fluttering prayer flags, and whitewashed chortens, Lahaul is cut off from the world by heavy snow for 8 months of the year. This mountainous region attracts adventurers to its Buddhist monasteries, mountain passes, spectacular glaciers, and high-altitude lakes. Visitors traveling by road to Leh in Ladakh, farther north, pass through Lahaul.
Moving on from Kaza, you can either head for Manali (it’ll take a full day) to catch your breath, or travel directly to Leh. The latter is a 2-day trip; the best (at least the only half-decent) place to stay along the way is the Hotel Ibex (www.hotelibexjispa.com; Rs 2,400 double with dinner and breakfast).
A Guide to the Top Temples, Gompas & Villages in Spiti & Kinnaur
BEST FOR HINDU MYSTIQUE: Bhimakali Temple Chanting and music blast from the temple loudspeakers very early each morning and again in the evenings, transforming Sarahan village into a place that literally resonates with spirituality. Combining Hindu and Buddhist architectural elements, the main section of the temple comprises two pagoda-style pitched slate-roof towers. Built from layers of interlaced stone and timber, the towers rise from a courtyard around which are living quarters and a small museum with a collection of weapons and other unusual ritual objects and relics. Had you visited the temple 200 years ago, you might have witnessed one of the annual human sacrifices that kept the gods satisfied; today, animals suffice. The tower on the right was damaged in an earthquake a century ago, and the presiding deity was relocated to the tower on the left. Climb the stairs to get to the main shrine with its family of idols. Bhimakali is