India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [531]
Another good walk takes you through Old Manali (center of cheap backpackers’ accommodations), the temple dedicated to Manu, and beyond to silent hillside paths where you’ll encounter village women passing the day over idle gossip while their men unhurriedly herd goats and cows toward greener pastures at higher altitudes. Most visitors pay a visit to Manali’s two more modern Buddhist gompas in the town’s Tibetan quarter south of the bazaar. Gadhan Thekchhokling gompa was built in 1969, and is recognizable by its yellow, pagoda-style roof; memorial notices outside draw attention to the extermination of Tibetans in China.
Just 24km (15 miles) short of Manali is Naggar, which like Manali is slowly being wrecked by unchecked construction and tourism. Visit the Nicholas Roerich Museum ( 01902/24-8290 or -8590; Tues–Sun 10am–1pm and 1:30–6pm), where the famous Russian artist lived from 1923 until he died in 1947. In this small but well-maintained museum, paintings and books by the prolific artist and philosopher are on display. In this stunning location, it’s easy to see why Roerich and his wife, Helena, were so inspired by their surroundings (though not everyone feels the same about his artworks). Also part of the estate is the Urusvati Himalayan Folk Art Museum (Tues–Sun 10am–6pm), created for the preservation of folk art and craft.
WHERE TO STAY
For those keen on outdoor pursuits like paragliding in summer and skiing in winter, you can skip the towns completely and head directly for Solang Valley Resort ( 01902/25-6132;www.solangvalleyresorts.com; doubles from Rs 6,500), situated only 0.5km (0.3 miles) from the beautiful Solang Valley (about 45 min. from Manali town). Accommodations—in a small cluster of buildings that look like an unfortunate attempt to imitate a Swiss suburb—are very comfortable.
Mandi & Kullu
If you’re traveling by road from Shimla direct to either Manali or Dharamsala, it’s a good idea to take a break en route. In Mandi, 70km (43 miles) south of Kullu, Raj Mahal ( 01905/22-2401, -3434 or 98-1602-1126; www.rajmahalpalace.com), a creaky-floorboards “palace,” is recommended for its serious time-warp character. Book one of the four enormous Royal Suites (Rs 4,400 double), which showcase an assortment of kitsch furnishings and objets d’art (in one room a stuffed leopard grimaces on a table with rifles for legs!). Generally, the service at Raj Mahal is quite awful, and the ancient plumbing acts up at times, but as a place to lay your head for a night and as a base for visiting nearby Rewalsar, it’s adequate. If you’re after a more typical hotel experience, head on to Apple Valley Resort ( 01902/26-0001 or -0006; www.applevalleyresorts.co.in), just short of Kullu town. Set on the banks of the Beas River, the luridly decorated country-style cabins with ivy-covered walls and stone chimneys are Rs 4,780 double, with all meals; insist on a cabin with a view. However, far better than either of these slightly institutional places is Banjara’s new, magnificently situated Sojha Retreat (www.banjaracamps.com) way off the beaten track (and a good 117km/73 miles, or 4 hr., short of Manali). Getting there requires quite a detour, heading first in the direction of Kinnaur before heading north of the Jalori Pass (3,223m/10,571 ft.), but its sublime mountain setting makes it a destination in its own right, with great walks (you can trek to Raghupur Fort or Serolser Lake) and excellent trout fishing in the nearby Tirthan