India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [532]
Manali
For the most atmospheric room in town, you’re best off in an original lodge apartment at Jimmy Johnson Lodge (aka Johnson Hotel, but not to be confused with the adjacent Johnson’s Lodge) or at Negi’s Hotel Mayflower; even better for a peaceful stay farther away from the main bazaar, is Casa Bella Vista, which has an inkling of small town glamour about it (all three are reviewed below). Alternatively, one of the most comfortable places in the vicinity of Manali is Span Resorts, which enjoys a superb riverside location (also reviewed below). If none of the following recommendations are available, Manali’s Private Hoteliers’ Information Centre (The Mall, near the taxi stand) is well established and can assist you in finding suitably priced accommodations if you haven’t prebooked. Note that during the busy season (mid-Apr to early July) you will have difficulty finding any decent guest accommodations in Manali (not necessarily a bad thing, considering how packed it gets).
Casa Bella Vista As close as Manali is ever likely to come to a boutique-style lodge, this collection of two large self-contained cottages and two double rooms offers a very comfortable stay with accommodations that are clean, neat, and fairly new. Girimer and his Spanish wife, Marta, spent 3 years building this place and finally opened in 2007; they’ve had the foresight to pick a relatively peaceful location (some distance away from the center, but still with in easy walking distance of the town’s main market and the more bohemian vibe of Old Manali), and have left lots of space so it doesn’t feel cluttered, nor is it likely to become oversubscribed. Part of the setup includes an outdoor cafe with an open-air wood-burning pizza oven—it’s a really relaxing place to enjoy a beer and a simple meal (although you may feel sorry for the waiter running up and down the stairs to the kitchen). Already, it’s attracting its fair share of wealthy, sophisticated Indian families come to unwind on the lawn or browse at the small women’s boutique that adjoins the restaurant and library area. Note: In 2010, the couple will be opening a new guesthouse at the end of the same road.
Log Hut Rd., Manali 175 131. 01902/25-1985 or 98-1669-9663. www.casabellavistamanali.com. 2 cottages and 2 rooms. Rs 3,500 deluxe double, Rs 11,100 cottage (3 bedrooms; 6 people); Rs 900 extra person over 12; Rs 500 extra child 5–12. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; beer served; badminton; children’s playground; Wi-Fi (in restaurant; free). In room: TV, DVD (in cottage), fireplace (in cottage), heater, kitchen (in cottage).
Jimmy Johnson Lodge Set among lovely lawns, this “lodge” was the first inhabited property in New Manali, and it offers a choice of vintage or modern accommodations not too far from the thick of things. Now run by Piya, the cosmopolitan granddaughter of the man who built the original stone lodge apartments, Johnson’s may be relatively close to the bazaar, but it remains a tranquil spot with lovely views. If you opt for one of the slate, stone, and wood guest rooms in the upper complex, ask for a corner unit—these are larger and have extra windows from which to enjoy the mountain scenes. If you’d prefer an old-fashioned experience, the three huge ivy-covered stone-walled balconied suites (“cottages”) in the original building are atmospheric curiosities, with aging furnishings, original fittings, and loads of space. Wood-beam ceilings, screened windows, and small, homey kitchens add to the ambience. Ask for cottage II, which is the neatest and quietest, although a bit pricier than the rest. A real highlight here is the presence of Manali’s chicest dining option.
Circuit House Rd., Manali 175 131. 01902/25-3023, -3764, or 98-1627-3023. Fax 01902/24-5123. www.johnsonhotel.in. johnsonshotel@gmail.com. 18 units, all with shower only. In season Rs 2,250 standard double, Rs 2,500 deluxe double, Rs 5,000–Rs 5,625 cottage (sleeps 4).