India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [533]
Negi’s Hotel Mayflower In a town overflowing with characterless hotels, this handsome, unpretentious, and comfortable option comes as quite a relief. Rooms are massive, with wooden floors and paneling, rocking chairs by the fireplace, tasteful lamps with rice-paper shades, desks in cozy corners, warm sitting areas, and spotless bathrooms (with bathtubs) overlooking the pine forests—what more could you possibly want? Even the standard double rooms have enough room for a few children. Best of all is the veranda that runs the length of the facade, furnished with wicker chairs to lounge around in while sipping cups of lemon tea. The extremely reserved proprietor keeps a low profile, but thankfully not in the kitchen—his Irish stew, roast lamb, caramel custard with stewed apricots, and bread and butter pudding are legendary. Manager Dharamendra looks after each of his guests with real care and can help with planning a detailed itinerary.
Club House Rd., Manali 175 131. 01902/25-2104 or -0256. Fax 01902/25-3923. www.negismayflower.com. reservation@mayflowermanali.com. 19 units. Rs 2,200 double, Rs 2,500 suite; Rs 350 extra bed. Rates exclude 10% tax. MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants (1 in the garden); airport transfers (Rs 900–Rs 2,000); room service. In room: TV, fireplace (in some), heater.
Span Resorts A riverside location, 15km (9 1⁄3 miles) from the center of Manali, makes this resort a peaceful respite from the crowds, enhanced by the generous range of amenities and outdoor activities on offer. Accommodations are in stone-and-wood cottages shaped like stars and spread around well-maintained grounds; they’re comfortable and offer a fair degree of privacy. Riverside units, with wooden floors, are the best. There isn’t a heck of a lot of space, but each cottage has a fireplace and a covered porch from which to appreciate the relaxed setting and mountain views. There is plenty to keep you occupied during the snowy season, including what may be the best-stocked bar in the state.
Kullu-Manali Hwy., P.O. Katrain 175 129. Info 01902/24-0138 or -0538. Fax 01902/24-0140. www.spanresorts.com. spanres@del3.vsnl.net.in. Reservations: Vijaya (1st Floor), 17 Barakhamba Rd., New Delhi 110 001. 011/2331-1434. Fax 011/2335-3148. 30 units. Rs 6,300 standard double, Rs 6,800 deluxe double, Rs 7,800 elite double. Rates include breakfast; 10% tax extra. 25% discount in off season. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 2 restaurants, card room, bar; badminton; basketball; billiards; children’s park; croquet; darts; fishing; heath club; library; minigolf; outdoor pool; room service; tennis; table tennis. In room: A/C, TV, minibar.
WHERE TO DINE
Cool cafe-style joints are all the rage in Manali—especially in the backpacker-haunted quarter of Old Manali, where you can sit for hours, chilling out to the pleasant vibrations of good music, decent coffee, and a generally laidback crowd; the best of these is The Lazy Dog Café (reviewed below). Bear in mind that most of these joints don’t take credit cards (they’re usually only open in the summer months, Apr–Oct, so operate cash businesses), and on the odd occasion you might be forced to put up with ill-mannered dope-smoking groups. Although you’ll just as easily find a crowd of very sociable, mindful types.
If you’re prepared to travel a bit to track down good Tibetan cuisine, ask your driver to head for Phunsok, a family run eatery on the riverbank 2.5km (1 1⁄2 miles) from Manali toward Solang (it’s on the left-hand side just ahead of the turn to Vashisht). Food is freshly cooked so don’t expect it to arrive in any hurry; seating is outdoors, and you can enjoy the scenery while you wait. For fine Tibetan fare (and a very warm, sociable vibe) closer to town, stop by Old Manali’s Yangkhor Garden ( 01902/25-4160 or 98-0525-7981), presided