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over by a jolly Tibetan mother figure named Kumsamg. It’s a seasonal restaurant (which shifts to Goan in the winter) and feels bit like a fifties diner, with red vinyl sofa benches, a TV in the corner, classic rock tunes, and an intimate lounge atmosphere—not to mention a photo of the Dalai lama peering down at you from one wall. The ceiling is strung with bags of water said to scare away the flies—and it seems to work. Kumsamg’s menu is a mixed and multifangled one; Italian, Indian, and even Chinese items are available, but stick to the Tibetan dishes, and ask Kumsamg to help you understand the difference between thukpa, tingmo, thanthuk, and fingsha; if you can’t decide, ask for a plate of steaming momos (dumplings).

Manali’s best Indian restaurant is Mayur (Mission Rd.; 01902/25-2316), located in the main bazaar, just off The Mall. Kangra Valley–born Rajesh Sud has been in the restaurant business since 1970 and opened this Manali institution back in 1978. Try the murgh tikka masala (barbecued chicken with spices) or the fresh, locally caught wild trout, prepared in the tandoor oven with a subtle blend of yogurt and aromatic spice.

For authentic Italian (including reasonably good coffee), Il Forno ( 98-1692-2481), housed in a century-old house in Dunghri en route to the Hadimba Temple, is your most authentic option, although it’s only open for dinner. Roberta Angelone, who is from Naples, returns to Manali each year to create memorable fresh-made pastas (ask if the ravioli is available) and real-deal pizzas. If you couldn’t be bothered to hike up to Il Forno, then head for Johnson’s Café (see below).

Johnson’s Café ECLECTIC Adjoining the famous Jimmy Johnson Lodge, this cozy, informal venue enjoys a lively atmosphere and pretty garden in which to enjoy views of the mountain surrounds (pity, though, about the plastic chairs on the lawn). Besides its Italian offerings (which seem pretty much standard in Manali), Johnson’s serves plenty of Indian standards and specializes in fresh, locally caught trout, and it’s a fine place to have coffee and breakfast while you plan the day’s trek. There’s now a cool bar (with some groovy mocktails, too), and plenty of small touches designed to give this country inn a more contemporary ambience.

Jimmy Johnson Lodge, The Mall, Manali. 01902/24-3764. Main courses Rs 60–Rs 360. MC, V (credit card payments have 21⁄2% surcharge). Summer Mon–Sat 7am–11:30pm.

The Lazy Dog Lounge INTERNATIONAL/LIGHT FARE Cool finally arrived in Manali in July 2008 with the opening of this lovely cafe-style eatery and bar that’s probably more about atmosphere than food, but what the heck. By day, grab a seat on the rocky terrace hanging over the river—the setting is extraordinary, and the soundtrack of water cascading over the boulder-strewn river bed beneath you is quite overwhelming and utterly calming. Look up and there are looming mountains and towering trees, and below are fishermen casting a line. Started by two drifters who met at an ashram, this is a good place for travelers to hang out—there’s a wide variety of dishes from around the world (Chinese, Japanese, Korean and Thai options included), all-day breakfasts (try the burrito stuffed with egg, spinach, and mushroom, and served with your choice of fruit juice or lassi), free Wi-Fi, sheesha hookahs, and all-round good vibes. Grilled rainbow trout—fresh from the river—is usually available, and there are Indian thalis, as well as traditional favorites such as butter chicken and chicken curry, and plenty of vegetarian choices. Service is rather middling, and the coffee wasn’t up to scratch, but we like it nonetheless.

Old Manali, P.O. Tehsil Manali. 01902/25-4277. www.thelazydog.in. Most meals Rs 80–Rs 200. No credit cards. Apr–Oct Mon–Sat 10:30am–11:30pm; Sun 1:30–11:30pm.

Up in Smoke with the Boom Shiva Hippies

With the apple-market slump causing rising local unemployment in recent years, the appeal of marijuana, Himachal Pradesh’s naturally occurring crop, has become all too obvious. High on the knowledge of the availability of cheap and easy-to-come-by