India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [537]
TREKKING & ADVENTURE SPORTS If you love the outdoors, it would be unthinkable not to trek in the magnificent Dhauladhar Range, and there are some impressive hikes whether you have limited time or are prepared to spend a few days exploring. You could start by approaching the Mountaineering Institute (Dharamkot Rd.; 01892/22-1787) for maps and information on the myriad trekking possibilities, or to join one of their outings. However, the best mountaineer in the region is John Hughes ( 98-0547-2037), who is probably the only person you should trust completely to take you into the mountains on more challenging treks and climbs. He won’t allow you to go up if you’re not properly prepared or don’t have the right shoes, for example. If you’re serious about getting into the mountains, contact him ahead of your visit.
Warning: Every year, a number of gung-ho, unprepared trekkers head off into the Dhauladhars and don’t come back. Don’t underestimate these mountains, and be aware that nightfall comes suddenly, along with potentially freezing conditions. Do not hike alone and always inform someone of your intended route. If you get injured in these mountains, there’s little chance of being found, and the lammergeiers (vultures, aka “bone breakers”) that nest here will finish you off without a trace.
Paragliding has become huge in the Kangra Valley, and the region’s expert is Bruce Mills ( 98-0567-8478; bruce@paranirvana.com), a New Zealand–born flyer who will set you up with a tandem flight that will leave you breathless for all the right reasons. Bruce has been flying in Himachal Pradesh since 1989 and launches from Billing; he charges Rs 3,000 for a half-hour flight, which can be extended if the weather is right and you’re particularly interested. Bruce can also fly-guide paraglider pilots who want to be shown around a bit before they head off on their own.
THE TOP ATTRACTIONS
Church of St. John in the Wilderness Ten minutes of downhill walking from McLeod Ganj brings you to the Church of St. John in the Wilderness, surrounded by deodar cedars. It’s a neo-Gothic stone construction, with its original Belgian stained glass intact in spite of a severe earthquake in 1905 that leveled the rest of town. Buried in the grassy adjoining graveyard is British Viceroy Lord Elgin (whose somewhat infamous father was responsible for the controversial Elgin Marbles).
Daily 10am–5pm.
Norbulingka Institute If you’re interested in getting a firsthand understanding of the techniques (and unbelievable patience) required to produce authentic Tibetan arts and crafts, the institute is a good starting point. Set in well-tended grounds some 40 minutes from Dharamsala, it comprises workshops, training centers, a temple, a guesthouse, a cafe, and a doll museum. You can contact the management in advance to organize a tour through the facilities, where you can witness the creation of colorful tantric thangkas (embroidered wall hangings), paintings, metalware, furniture, and traditional garments. You can also sign up for Tibetan language lessons, particularly useful if you intend spending time here to work as a volunteer, or wish to explore Buddhism in more depth. The beautiful Seat of Happiness Temple features astounding murals, including impressions of all 14 Dalai Lamas and 1,173 images of the Buddha, which decorate the 13m-high (43-ft.) temple hall. The gilded copper Buddha Sakyamuni was crafted by Norbulingka’s master statue-maker, Pemba Dorje, and is one of the largest of its kind outside Tibet; the arch behind the statue is decorated with sculpted clay images. Head for the richly ornamented temple rooftop for magnificent views of the surrounding landscape. The Institute’s Losel Doll Museum features diorama-style displays of miniature figures (Tibetan dolls) in traditional costumes and historical regalia.
P.O. Sidhpur. 01892/24-6402 or -6405. www.norbulingka.org. Free admission; doll museum Rs 20. Daily 9am–5:30pm.
Thekchen Chöling Temple Complex Life in McLeod Ganj revolves around this Buddhist temple