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complex, linked to the off-limits private residence of the Dalai Lama. A good example of Buddhism’s spiritual and artistic traditions, the complex comprises Namgyal Monastery and Tsuglakhang Temple, both worth a visit if you’re keen to get a sense of active lamaistic practice. In the outside courtyard, you’ll often witness monks debating or meditatively preparing colorful sand mandalas, diagrams that symbolize the universe and are used in the ritual of spiritual empowerment known as the kalachakra ceremony, after which the meticulous designs are destroyed. The gompa houses various cultural relics brought from Lhasa during the Cultural Revolution, including a 1,500-year-old idol of Guru Padmasambhav, and a life-size image of Avalokiteshvara, of whom the Dalai Lama is believed to be an incarnation. Public appearances by the Dalai Lama occur from time to time; consult the local authorities for information (and see “Essentials,” above). The complex courtyard is the venue for an all-day festival of traditional dance held in honor of His Holiness’s birthday on July 6, although the Dalai Lama is not always in attendance on this auspicious day. It’s worthwhile to take a break from the prayer wheels and settle in at the tiny, laid-back Nyamgal Café in the temple complex (see “Where to Dine,” below) which serves as a vocational training opportunity for young Tibetans. Snag the window-side table for beautiful views over the valley below.

Temple Rd. The temple closes at 8pm.

Tibetan Institute for Performing Arts (TIPA) One hour from McLeod Ganj is TIPA, one of the first institutes set up by the Dalai Lama when he settled in McLeod Ganj, for the study and preservation of traditional Tibetan opera, dance, and music. Tibetan opera (Lhamo) performances can be long (some last 6 hr.) and are best experienced during the annual 9-day-long Shoton Opera Festival held in February and March (usually held in Dharamsala, but sometimes in other Tibetan settlement areas). Many other performances are held throughout the year as well, and interested visitors are welcome to watch classes. Ask at your hotel, check bulletin boards in local cafes for announcements, or go to the website for details.

Dharamkot Rd. 01892/22-1478.www.tibetanarts.org.

The Tibet Museum If you’d like to learn more about the plight of the Tibetan people, then step into this sophisticated but rather depressing installation that provides a historical overview of the situation in Tibet. A Long Look Homeward, the main exhibition, consists of two parts. The downstairs display highlights the atrocities that have been carried out against millions of Tibetans during the Chinese occupation. Although events are detailed primarily through textual displays, the collection of data is emotionally challenging. Upstairs, the exhibition focuses more on Tibetan history. Particularly moving is the “testimony corner,” where visitors can record the names of loved ones whose deaths are a result of the occupation. Lectures, presentations, and video screenings are presented in the small lecture hall; visit www.thetibetmuseum.org if you’re interested in upcoming events.

Near the main temple and Namgyal Monastery Gate. Admission Rs 5.Tues–Sun 10am–6pm.

WHERE TO STAY

In McLeod Ganj, the best place to stay is the Norbulingka Institute–run Chonor House, not least for its dining. If you have a yearning to live in a forest surrounded by nature’s bounty, another good option is Glenmoor Cottages. (Both options are reviewed below.) For those who prefer a more secluded stay, head out to Dharamkot, a small borough just above McLeod Ganj with stupendous views of the Dhauladhar mountains and Kangra Valley. Hotel Dev Cottage ( 01892/22-1558; www.devcottage.com) has pleasant rooms with large windows, balconies, and lovely views, for Rs 2,200 double including tax. However, if you’re here to get a sense of just how dreamy and miraculous this part of Himachal really is—enjoying in equal measure the finest views of snow-tipped mountains, a valley spread far beneath your feet, and a warm, homey environment you won’t