India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [539]
If the recommended places in McLeod Ganj and Dharamkot are full, the two best options in Dharamsala are White Haven Estate and Grace Hotel, a 200-year-old haveli converted into a heritage hotel. Although its approach isn’t too inspiring (through the congested clutter of the main street into a narrow over-concretized lane), the views of the valley from the other side are splendid. The house is built in the traditional hill style, with narrow galleries, 200-year-old deodar tree pillars, alcoves, balconies and terraces, wooden latticed screens and doors, antique brass locks, and some beautiful pieces of furniture—it may not be very polished or sophisticated but it certainly is atmospheric (558 Old Chari Rd., Kotwali Bazaar, Dharamsala; 01892/22-3265;www.welcomheritagegracehotel.com; Rs 3,800 double).
Another option far from town but worth considering is Norling Guesthouse (at the Norbulingka Institute; 01892/26-4606; guesthouse@norbulingka.org), which has eight charming, artist-decorated rooms (Rs 1,400 double, excluding tax) and a couple of very impressive suites (Rs 2,300 double), all with attached modern bathrooms. Vegetarian meals can be served in your room, or in the Institute’s very pleasant Norling Café, and the manager organizes reliable Tibetan drivers and luxury vehicles.
Cheryton Cottage For a clean, well-maintained good-value budget stay, consider this small family run guesthouse near enough the center of McLeod Ganj, but far from the hustle and bustle and inevitable noise. The rooms are spartan 1970s throwbacks dressed in bold colors (of the four units, the aptly named “Blue” and “Pink” have views). Above the guesthouse is an entire apartment (one double bedroom with attached bathroom, living room with TV, equipped kitchenette including a gas cooker, and balcony) which can be rented on a daily basis or taken for a month at a time (at a very generous rate; gas and electricity is charged extra, but the apartment is serviced 6 days a week). Oenophiles take note: Owner Cheryl Templeton was the first woman in India to produce wine, and she started the first winery in the Kangra district a few years ago; ask if you can sample her vintages, made from grapes, ginger, and blackcurrants, using old Italian family recipes.
Jogibara Rd., McLead Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219. 01892/22-1993 or 94-1802-2858. tcheryl_89@yahoo.com. 5 units, including 1 apt., all with shower only. Rs 700 double; Rs 1,500 apt. (or Rs 21,000 per month). Rates include tax. MC, V. Minimum 2-night stay. Amenities: Cafe; winery. In room: TV, kitchenette (in apt.), no phone.
Chonor House A stone’s throw away from the main gompa, and filled with genuine character and beautiful decor, this is the best option in McLeod Ganj. Each room was designed and decorated by artists from the Norbulingka Institute, based around Tibetan cultural themes. There are three categories of rooms, each offering different amenities: Some have balconies, some have tubs, and some (like the magnificent “Voyage at Sea” room) are simply enormous. “Nomad” features strikingly painted yaks, goats, and traveling tribespeople and also has a lovely balcony from which you have a direct view of the gompa. Indeed, you need hardly step outside the front door to get a good feel for Tibetan art and culture—this is a treasure chest of style and meticulous attention to details most Westerners probably don’t think about. Note: Tibetan hospitality at its very best can, of course, do nothing to stop the chorus of barking hounds that seems to be the typical prelude—or interruption—to a good night’s sleep.
Thekchen Choling Rd. (road ends at Pema Thang, walk the last 50m/164 ft.), P.O. McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219. 01892/22-1468 or -1006. Fax 01892/22-0815. www.norbulingka.org. chonorhs@norbulingka.org. 11 units. Rs 2,200–Rs 2,850 double, Rs 3,300 suite; add 25% for extra bed. 10% tax extra.