India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [541]
Hotel Bhagsu Rd., McLeod Ganj, Dharamsala 176 219. 01892/22-1871 or 92-1840-2718. www.pemathang.net. 15 units. Rs 825–Rs 1,155 double. No credit cards. Amenities: Restaurant; small library; room service; yoga. In room: Heating (Rs 150–Rs 200/day), TV (in some), Wi-Fi (8am–10:30pm; Rs 150/day).
Meditation in the Mountains
Frazzled young executives from the plains looking to destress and recharge their batteries head for Dharamsala to attend meditation programs at Osho Nisarga (Shilla, PO Pantehar, Dharamsala 176 057; 01892/27-5592, -5730, 94-1803-7370, or 94-1803-7373), a retreat offering a spiritual vacation aligned with the philosophies of the 20th-century guru Bagwan Rajneesh (aka Osho; ). The center is part ashram, part getaway, where you’re encouraged to get in touch with yourself through a program of meditation (including dance meditation), group therapy, and discussion—on top of that, you’re fed healthy vegetarian meals made with organic ingredients. The retreat is superbly designed and works especially well in the context of the beautiful forested surroundings; spread over 2.5 hectares (6 acres), it’s bordered by orchards, dense pine forest, and mountain streams. Best of all, you needn’t forgo any of the comforts you traditionally expect on a vacation, and you’ll leave feeling refreshed, rejuvenated, and having experienced a moment of clarity that will hopefully stay with you the rest of your life—or at least until you hit rush hour traffic again. The Zen-themed accommodations are in a choice of interesting buildings, from the Greek-styled three-story Matreiya House with its pyramidal bedroom, to a number of luxury cottages with smart marble bathrooms and an emphasis on tranquillity. If you’re not staying at the center, you can only visit with prior appointment from 10am to 1pm and from 3 to 5pm. The organizers won’t be thrilled to have you unless you show at least some interest in Osho’s work—at the very least, read some of his books before coming. While you’re here you can attend daily dynamic meditation at 6:30am, kundalini and dance meditation, and evening meetings of the Osho White Robe Brotherhood; the center also hosts regular silent retreats and a variety of workshops and special events. Find out more through the website as you’ll need to pick a program before asking about costs; www.oshonisarga.com. Note: This Osho retreat is not connected with the Osho Meditation Resort in Pune, but is a result of a split in the global Osho brand that happened after his death; folks here are a little less interested in attracting “beginners.”
WHERE TO DINE
A Taste of Tibet
Confused by what’s available in the Tibetan restaurants of the Indian Himalayan region? Here’s a guide: Gyathuk is a traditional egg noodle soup, typically prepared with tofu and black-and-white mushrooms. Thenthuk is a broth made with handmade noodles. Pishi is another name for wontons, often served in a vegetable broth with Tibetan tofu. You’ll find Tibetan tofu and dumplings swimming in your mothuk, another traditional Tibetan broth. Shabaklab or shabalay is the Tibetan version of a pie, typically accompanied by broth. Momos are Tibetan dumplings, filled with cheese, vegetables, or meat. Shabri are seasoned meat or vegetable balls. Bobi are Tibetan spring rolls, filled with glass noodles, tofu, and mixed vegetables. Most Tibetan dishes can be served with vegetables, chicken, mutton, or even pork. Bod-jha is the staple Tibetan tea, copious quantities of which are consumed by Tibetans everywhere, and by almost no one else. It tastes nothing like any tea you’ve ever had—besides tea and milk, it contains salt and butter.
As with many of the towns popular with tourists, McLeod Ganj is disproportionately restaurant-heavy. There’s also a huge emphasis on vegetarian dining, thanks to the presence of the Dalai Lama. By far the best place to eat