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is Chonor House, which specializes in Tibetan cuisine (see below). Other Tibetan restaurants worth highlighting are Green Restaurant (Bhagsunag Rd.; 01892/22-1200), which uses only organic produce, and the newly opened Tibet Kitchen on Jogibara Road, very close to the town square. Also on Jogibara, look for the lovely Tibetan women selling homemade vegetable momos out on the street just outside the Norling Café—they’re extremely cheap, piping hot, and delicious. You can ask for them either steamed or fried, and eat them right there on the small bench provided, watching the world go by as you debate whether or not to order a second helping. You won’t regret it if you do, but be cautious with the hot sauce.

A personal favorite, though, is the Namgyal Café (Namgyal Monastery; 98-1615-0562; daily 10am–9:30pm) in the same complex as the Tsuglakhang or Main Temple. It’s a wonderfully vibey haunt, where cool young Tibetans serve various tasty dishes and indulgences amid a tidy collection of books, plastic flowers, and hip jazzy lounge tunes. Market fresh ingredients are used to prepare traditional Tibetan thukpa, scrumptious salads, and exquisite thin-crust pizzas (which really have been improving over the past few years—look for the daily specials). Try the tofu stroganoff or tsampa (roasted flour) crepes; if you’re not feeling too experimental, stick to noodles, momos, or you can try out the international vegetarian dishes ranging from Indonesian gado-gado to Cuban arroz a la cubana. There’s no alcohol, but this is a great place to try Tibetan herbal tea or a refreshing lassi. They also serve butter tea and some great cakes to go with it.

While Tibetan fare would appear to be the way to go, you’ll pretty much find something for everyone—from falafels to focaccia, momos (dumplings) to tempura. At least four German bakeries and as many pizzerias also cater to the large number of foreigners who come to McLeod Ganj. There’s even a nifty grub-’n’-pub-style restaurant called Mc’Llo (at the top of Temple Rd.; 01892/22-1280), an extremely popular hangout for travelers that prides itself on having once entertained Pierce Brosnan (celebrity culture having few geographical boundaries). If you want Japanese, Lung Ta is an intimate diner with meat-free dishes that includes a small floor-seating area with traditional low tables (Jogibara Rd.; 01892/22-0689). Daily set meals feature a curious mix of Japanese vegetarian dishes; all meals a real steal at under Rs 100.

For Italian, head to Nick’s Italian Kitchen (in the Kunga Guesthouse, Bhagsu Rd., McLeod Ganj; 01892/22-1180), which is something of a local institution, as much for the surprisingly good meals as for the views from its massive terrace. Gnocchi, cannelloni, and ravioli are prepared fresh every morning. The eggplant, spinach, and cheese lasagnas are star attractions, as is the aptly named “Pizza Everything.” Nick’s has the edge, but if you’re passing The Pizzeria (past Tushita into Dharamkot village—ask anyone), you’ll find simple, tasty pizzas prepared by a local Gaddi family, apparently taught how to make wood-fire pizzas by a visiting Italian.

“The Dalai Lama Speaks Here & Richard Gere Slept There”

One of the best people to speak to if you’re eager to organize an audience with His Holiness is the spirited owner of Nick’s Italian Kitchen, Tenzin. His father worked as security officer for the Dalai Lama from the age of 18, and Tenzin remains a proud and committed follower of the Dalai Lama. He also organizes occasional talks on Tibet and Buddhism at the restaurant, and is overflowing with personal theories about the local community and the diplomatic situation with the Chinese government. Staunch Richard Gere fans traveling on a limited budget can try to get the extremely popular Gere Suite at the seriously laid-back Kunga Guesthouse ( 98-1602-1180), above the restaurant; Gere was the first guest when it opened on January 24, 1996. Rooms here are basic, but have attached bathrooms, hot showers, and double beds for Rs 300; Rs 500 gets you one with a balcony, and Rs 600 gets