India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [547]
By Road Typically, you require two rather tiring days in a Jeep (or bus) to get from Manali to Leh. But for those seeking an adventurous road trip coupled with exquisite, endlessly changing scenery, the journey—by off-road vehicle or bus—is highly recommended; see “The Ride of your Life: Negotiating the Manali-Leh Highway,” below.
The Ride of your Life: Negotiating the Manali-Leh Highway
Nearly 475km (295 miles) of tricky roads, mountain passes, and exceptional roller-coaster scenery separates Leh from Manali. For most of the year, this spectacular stretch of road is closed to traffic, covered by thick snow. Even when the road is officially open in late June and early July, the danger of unexpected snowfall looms, bringing with it various risks associated with getting stuck in the middle of vast unpopulated areas with only freezing cold nights for company. Once summer has set in, a variety of makeshift dhabas and chai stalls are gathered in minicolonies along the way. You’ll need your passport for a string of checkpoints, the first of which is just beyond the Rohtang Pass at the head of the Kullu Valley. Beyond this, you enter Lahaul, a vast Trans-Himalayan landscape dotted with flat-roofed, whitewashed houses built from sun-dried bricks. Sarchu, a motley collection of tented camps, is where you’ll probably bed down for the night; you’ll be too cold to complain about the limited facilities. You reach the world’s second-highest motorable road at the summit of the Tanglang-La Pass (5,241m/17,190 ft.); here you will find a small multifaith shrine adorned by images of gurus, deities, and religious icons. Beyond the pass, exquisite mountains in a host of unbelievable colors compete with charming villages for your attention.
Your cheapest viable option is an ostensibly “luxury” bus operated by HPTDC ( 0177/265-2651;www.hptdc.nic.in; July–Sept 15). For Rs 1,600 you get an ass-numbing 2-day trip (starting at a civilized 11am) with spartan tented accommodations and dinner en route at Keylong; you arrive in Leh at 7pm the following evening. Occasional stops for chai and photographs are obligatory, but bring plenty of refreshments. Bottled water is particularly important because dehydration is one of the symptoms of altitude sickness. Garlic in any form also apparently helps. Jeeps and minivan taxis are pricier but represent relative luxury and the opportunity to explore villages and off-road sites along the way. Hiring your own vehicle and driver is an even better way to go—it costs Rs 12,000 for the whole vehicle divided by the number of passengers. If you’ve hired your own vehicle, overnight at Hotel Ibex in Jispa, beyond Keylong ( 01900/23-3203;www.hotelibexjispa.com; Rs 2,400 double with dinner and breakfast). Don’t even consider the 1-day minibus trips that leave Manali at 2am in the morning and arrive in Leh around 9pm; not only will your nerves, gut, and body be frazzled by the end of it, but you’ll miss out on the awesome scenery at the start and end of the trip. Very popular these days are motorbike safaris that make the journey from Manali to Leh; an experienced operator is Capt. Raaj Kumar of Shepherds Realms, Camps & Adventures, who also offers 14- to 21-day tailor-made safaris ( 98-1871-2970;www.asiasafari.com; shepherdsrealms@gmail.com) that take in wider explorations of Ladakh once you’re there.
VISITOR INFORMATION Leh has a Tourist Information Center, but you are advised not to waste your time there. Speak to your hotel manager or any of the many tour operators who offer various services throughout Ladakh. You could also check out www.leh.nic.in. If you’re interested in learning more about Ladakhi culture and Buddhism, you can contact Open Ladakh (www.openladakh.com), which offers basic courses in Buddhist philosophy, not to mention “alternative” cultural and adventure tours through the region.
Altitude Sickness
Arriving by air into Leh makes most people feel slightly knocked out, with headaches, loss of appetite, drowsiness, and