India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [548]
GETTING AROUND By Car Thanks to a strong military presence in the region, Ladakh’s roads are excellent and the network of accessible destinations extensive. Although Leh has but one auto-rickshaw, it has as many as 1,500 taxis, with fixed rates to practically any place in the state, or beyond. For taxi rates and bookings, call the Leh Taxi Stand ( 01982/25-2723). If you want to explore extensively, your best bet is to share a jeep (booked only through a travel agency) with fellow travelers interested in visiting similar destinations; most agencies will even advertise shared jeeps on your behalf. Mr. Tundup Dorje, a prolific writer, is the owner of Overland Escape (Raku Complex, Fort Rd., Leh; 01982/25-0858; www.overlandescape.com), the agent used by most hotels, and considered the most reliable in town; try him first. Note: You cannot rent a vehicle outside Leh if you want to tour within Ladakh.
GUIDED TOURS & ADVENTURE & TREKKING COMPANIES It’s easy to plan your own outings and give the instructions to your jeep or taxi driver. If you want to deal with an outfitter, refer to the “Staying Active” section earlier in this chapter. If you are very keen on receiving expert information as you explore monasteries and other sights, then a licensed operator may be useful; use one of our recommendations, or ask your hotel to put you in touch with the right people. For a tour that includes good accommodations in pleasantly converted rooms in traditional village family homes, see “Village Homestays, Boutique-Style.”
Overland Escape (see above) should be your first stop for all kinds of adventure activities or tours through Ladakh. Also recommended is Yama Adventures ( 01982/25-0833 or 94-1917-8763; www.yamatreks.com), a small Ladakhi-owned company with a good track record; owner Rinchen Namgial ( 99-0698-7782) has previously worked with teams from the Smithsonian Institute and National Geographic, and puts together jeep safaris, relatively easy treks (such as the 8- to 10-day Markha Valley hike), and also more thrill-oriented experiences such as climbing the Stok glacier. Banjara Camps, although based in Delhi, is also highly recommended, and is the only outfit to use the services of a qualified geologist (Delhi office: 011/2686-1397, 011/2685-5153, or 98-1064-5455; www.banjaracamps.com). For more leisure-oriented travelers, Banjara also conducts jeep safaris of Ladakh. In Leh itself, Rimo Expeditions (Hotel Kanglhachen Complex, opposite the Police Station; 01982/25-3257 or -3348; www.rimoexpeditions.com) is a reliable outfit that undertakes a multitude of adventure-oriented multiday excursions. The company also arranges less hectic trekking expeditions, as well as jeep and yak safaris, and skiing, mountain biking, and challenging mountaineering packages for serious climbers. English-speaking mountain guides are provided, as well as all equipment, porters, cooks, and other staff.
Walking on Water & Other Adventures for Serious Trekkers
One of the crazier (or more adventurous) treks is the arduous 16-day Chadar Trek along the Zanskar River, sufficiently semifrozen to support your weight for 2 months of the year. For 4 days (one-way) you trek on slippery ice and occasionally climb around open water on this ancient trade route; at night, outside temperatures plummet to a bone-chilling 3.8°F (–15°C). By day (when it’s a mere 23.8°F/–4°C or so) the challenges are many, but the setting is awesome and there’s always the chance of meeting local Zanskaris. One of the best operators offering this trek is Project Himalaya ( 977/98-0214-9789 in Kathmandu; www.project-himalaya.com; info@project-himalaya.com), a Kathmandu-based company