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with good ethics and a somewhat unformulaic approach to its routes. Also taking in parts of Zanskar is the Markha Valley Trek (10–12 days)—considered one of the most exhilarating and varied on earth—undertaken by Himalayan River Runners (www.hrrindia.com) You cross two Himalayan passes at altitudes over 4,500m (14,760 ft.) and descend into the Zanskar Valley before finishing the in upper parts of the Markha, surrounded by jagged peaks. Banjara offers an 8-day version that follows the riverbed more closely and includes one very high pass. Bajara also offers a 2-week trek that culminates at Lamayuru, one of the most enchanting monasteries in Ladakh, and reached by way of some truly intense scenery. If you’re wanting to climb the Stok Glacier (traversing altitudes over 4,800m/16,000 ft.), contact Rinchen Namgial at Yama Adventures (www.yamatreks.com), who will make all the necessary arrangements (and get the special license required). Also ask about treks to Pangong Tso and Tso Moriri; again see “Staying Active,” earlier in this chapter, for more adventure companies.

WHAT TO SEE & DO IN LEH

Leh’s wide street bazaar runs east-west. Together with the labyrinth of adjoining side streets and alleys, the bazaar is the center of business and shopping—particularly for visitors who find the plethora of antiques shops irresistible. Locals tend to visit the alternative market nearer the Leh polo ground, east of the center. For a truly exotic and atmospheric experience, visit the Old Village, a disorganized cluster of cobblestone streets, ancient homes, and low-vaulted tunnels. It’s well worth an exploratory jaunt, during which you should sample the freshly baked breads sold by local bakers. Walking northwest of the city (beyond the Women’s Alliance of Ladakh headquarters, where you can shop for traditional Ladakhi handicrafts), you will quickly discover a rural farm community. Gone are the shops and eager sellers—here you’ll find only fields of green sprinkled with bright yellow blossoms, gentle streams trickling past squat stone walls, and small Ladakhi houses with little vegetable gardens; these days, there are also an ever-increasing number of guesthouses and hotels, though. To the west are the cobbled streets of the popular Changspa neighborhood, characterized by the number of guesthouses, restaurants, and laid-back marijuana-smoking travelers who seem to come here to hang out with each other. To the west of Changspa lies Shanti Stupa, a Buddhist monument most easily reached by motorable road. Inaugurated by the Dalai Lama in the 1980s, the large white stupa (commemorative cairn) was conceived as part of a Japanese-inspired peace movement to spread Buddhism throughout the world. From the vast courtyard at the base of the stupa you can enjoy matchless panoramic views of Leh and the rugged beauty of the surrounding mountains, which seem to stretch on forever. Looming over Leh from the side of Tsemo Hill is the nine-storey Leh Palace (Rs 100; sunrise–sunset), reached by following any number of pathways through the old quarter that stretches out behind the Jama Masjid in the northeastern corner of the main bazaar area. Built mainly of stone and wood with mud bricks and mud mortar, construction began in 1553 under Tsewang Namgyal, the founder of the Hyamgal Dynasty; it’s designed as a miniature version of Llasa’s Potala Palace, but has long languished in a state of disrepair, but reconstruction and restoration are well under way and will no doubt continue for some years. There’s still quite a bit to investigate, including an atmospheric temple inside the palace, and the views from its balconies and windows are magnificent. A stiff climb farther up the hill will bring you to the Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, where the dangerous-looking ramparts invite cautious exploration; there’s a small temple hidden away right at the top and at some point a young monk might just jump out of nowhere asking you to buy a Rs 20 ticket. Again, the views are simply awesome—take your time and mind your step.

Back in the main part of town, make a point of finding