India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [550]
The Great Ladakhi Gatherings
If you’re hoping to coincide your visit to Ladakh with a special event, there’s always the increasingly commercial 2-day Hemis Tsechu, a colorful festival with chaam dances, temple music, and a number of sacred rituals seemingly put on for the enjoyment of the heaving crowd. Sadly, the authenticity of the festival has been seriously compromised as this region grows in popularity and Hemis is mobbed by tourists and stall-keepers out to make a quick buck. An exciting new, nonreligious alternative festival is the Ladakh Confluence (http://theconfluence.in), which premiered in 2009, and is set to become a highlight on India’s event circuit. Held for 4 days in July or August (check the website for this year’s exact dates), the festival is a celebration of music, art, nature and culture that promises some outstanding performances, as well as many workshops showcasing everything from Ladakhi dance and drumming to meditation and storytelling; there’s a film lounge, outdoor cafe, nomadic camping site where traditional crafts are demonstrated, food stalls, and a number of chill-out spaces. While Hemis is a religious festival blown out of proportion, the Confluence aims to get people thinking about the environment and rethinking their relationship with cultural tradition. Even so, the lineup of events includes a momo-eating competition and plenty of pure entertainment. It’s held on the banks of the Indus River just outside Choglomsar, some 8km (5 miles) from Leh; in 2009, entry cost Rs 5,000 for a 4-day adult pass, or Rs 1,500 for a day ticket. For a more authentic and spiritually meaningful festival experience, make a date for the annual Lamayuru festival held between late June and early July. Tourists are few, but villagers from miles around don their best traditional finery and make the pilgrimage on foot to join in some of the most enchanting Buddhist celebrations still happening today.
WHERE TO STAY IN & AROUND LEH
With tourism the single most important industry in town, Leh is inundated with accommodations, most of them offering very good value, often with a homey, welcoming atmosphere rather than five-star luxury. Remember that virtually all these places are closed for most of the year during a prolonged harsh winter, so it doesn’t really pay to have heaps of facilities that are only operative for a few months. Besides, you’re here to see the dramatic Ladakhi landscape and discover its unique culture and Buddhist heritage, so forgive occasionally basic conditions, especially when it comes to bathrooms which, for the most part, are merely adequate (check into the glitzy Grand Dragon if you demand more). Try to be understanding about hot water facilities (which may be restricted to certain hours), and consider the fragility of the environment and the fact that running water is in fact a very scarce resource.
We’ve long enjoyed the out-of-the-way setting of the welcoming Shambha-La Hotel, and this, together with family run Omasila (both reviewed below) remains our top choices.
There is no tax in Ladakh, but most hotels do charge an additional 10% service charge which will be added to your bill; most hotels have meal plans in addition to the standard bed and breakfast options for which we’ve provided rates below. It’s definitely worth venturing beyond your hotel and trying some of the restaurants in town, though, so rather avoid signing up for all-inclusive meal packages. The same does not apply once you step outside Leh, when finding a reliable place to eat can be quite challenging.
The Grand Dragon Ladakh’s first and only full-on hotel, complete with elevator, business-style rooms and the best bathrooms for hundreds of miles, is sadly afflicted by incompetence. Full marks for getting the mattresses and linens right (not to mention plasma TVs), some interesting artworks and providing great views, but it’s a tactless luxury. The hulking block of concrete may echo local architecture,