India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [552]
Karzoo-Changspa, Leh 194 101. 01982/25-2119, -1178, or -0207. www.omasila.com. 40 units (including 6 with tubs). Rs 1,800–Rs 2,000 standard double, Rs 2,300–Rs 2,500 deluxe double, Rs 3,100–Rs 3,900 suite. Rates include breakfast. MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; TV lounge; Internet (in cybercafe; Rs 50/hr.); oxygen facilities, room service. In room: TV, central heating.
Poplar Eco Resort Set amid a virtual jungle of apple, apricot, walnut, and poplar trees that were planted here when the hotel was built, this is a really lovely low-key find tucked away near the edge of town. Separated from the adjacent farmland by just a low wall, this collection of simple little cottages linked by concrete pathways that snake their way through the overgrown garden (you may need to duck and dive a bit as you head to your room) is a lovely change from the heavily touristed places that are just up the road but feel quite distant once you’re here. The hotel offers neat, clean accommodations with basic furnishings and beds covered with clean white linens and block-printed Indian throws. And, from the lush, wild garden, superb views of Khardung-La and the Stok mountain range; jump into a hammock or one of the cane chairs scattered around the property and meditate on the beauty of it all.
Shenam Fort Rd., Leh 194 101. 01982/25-3518 or 94-1917-8468. www.poplar-ecoresrt.com. poplar–ecoresort@yahoo.co.uk. 20 units. Rs 2,310 double; Rs 921 extra bed. Rates include breakfast. No credit cards. Amenities: Dining hall, TV lounge; airport transfers (Rs 150); Wi-Fi (in lobby; free for e-mail checking); yoga (Aug–Sept). In room: No phone.
Shambha-La Hotel Owned by Ladakh’s former tourism minister, who lives here with his Tibetan wife, Shambha-La offers straightforward but dignified accommodations in a flat-roofed Ladakhi-style lodge with fluttering prayer flags and comfortable hammocks in the neat garden. Public areas—including a colorful Tibetan lounge area—are attractive, and the views from the upstairs terrace are mesmerizing. Standard guest rooms are far from lavish, but they’re cozy and you get a warm bed, and the executive and penthouse rooms are actually quite smart. Power outages can be a serious problem this far from the town center, so have your hot shower early, just in case. A hotel jeep is on hand to drop you in town whenever you require a lift, and the helpful manager is a mine of useful information.
Skara, Leh 194 101. 01982/25-1100, -2607, or -3500. Fax 01982/25-1100. www.hotelshambhala.com. ladakh@hotelshambhala.com. Reservations: A-10/5 Ground Floor, DLF Phase I, Gurgaon, Haryana. 0124/428-6665, 98-103-5145, or 94-1917-7900. 26 units. Rs 3,000 deluxe double, Rs 4,000 executive double, Rs 5,200 penthouse; Rs 1,300 extra bed. Rates include breakfast; 10% service charge extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant, TV lounge; free airport transfers; billiards; small library. In room: TV, central heating.
Village Homestays, Boutique-Style
The smartest way to see Ladakh is with the innovative and stylish Himalayan specialists, Shakti ( 0124/456-3899; www.shaktihimalaya.com), which runs all-inclusive personalized airport-to-airport trips (minimum 5 days) that give you a genuine feel for the region. Supported by your very own team of English-speaking guides, porters, a cook, and a driver, you’ll get to overnight in unspoiled villages where you become VIP guests in renovated upstairs rooms in traditional family homes. It’s a novel approach to the homestay experience, where you needn’t forgo basic luxuries such as a decent mattress or comforting linens—Shakti used Ladakhi craftsmen to upgrade parts of traditional family homes, resulting in slick-but-cozy spaces that are infinitely more suitable for travelers unaccustomed to the cold, harsh and basic conditions that are the norm for most Ladakhis. So instead of rough mats and a pile of blankets, you get a plump bed, chic duvets, and your very own wood-burning fireplace—chances are you’ll have a wonderful view through lots of windows, too. Besides getting