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an inside look at traditional Ladakhi life (increasingly absent from Leh, which has become very much a tourist town jam-packed with guesthouses and hotels and little room left for authentic culture), Shakti relies on guides, chefs, and chauffeured vehicles to get you where you need to be—not to mention amazing treks, rafting experiences, and plenty of interaction in the villages and insights at the monasteries. A week-long package costs $6,092 for two people traveling together (this includes all transport within Ladakh, accommodation, all meals, drinks, personnel, and taxes; children pay approximately half).

If, on the other hand, you don’t mind abstaining from many of your basic home comforts, you could always investigate an entirely authentic experience with Himalayan Homestays (www.himalayan-homestays.com). Rooms will be basic but clean, and have some lighting (either candle or solar-powered), and meals will be the genuine article, prepared hygienically using mostly local ingredients and served with the family. The organization now has 44 homestays in 11 villages around Leh region and a farther nine homestays in Zanskar. You’ll pay just Rs 800 double with all meals (Rs 450 single) with meals. You can book through Maitreya Tours (DB2, Zangsti, Leh; 01982/25-0060, -1466, 94-1917-6036, or 96-9738-7083; www.spiritualhimalaya.com).

WHERE TO DINE IN LEH

For the best Tibetan dishes in Leh, dinner at The Tibetan Kitchen is recommended; for the most relaxing meal, anytime of the day, don’t miss the Penguin Garden Restaurant (both are reviewed below). In the Main Street Bazaar, you might be forgiven for not even noticing the reliable Himalaya Café ( 01982/25-0144; Rs 45–Rs 150; no credit cards), where Tibetan and Chinese dishes are served in the Ladakhi version of a dimly lit bistro—one of the few eating establishments in Leh where you’ll experience some sort of atmosphere. In the Main Street Bazaar, Cafe Amdo has brilliant thupka—the local staple, a soup noodle mixed with veggies, succulent meat, and a round of hot, delicious sauces that’ll clear your sinuses. And Dreamland on Fort Road is another popular all-day restaurant with a varied menu, including Kashmiri dishes.

One of the coolest newcomers (and there have been many additions to Leh’s fly-by-night restaurant scene) in Changspa, is Jeevan Restaurant and, above it, the rooftop Café Jeevan. The restaurant is swish and slightly more formal, while the canopied open-air place upstairs is a better bet during the day. The menu is predictably overladen with options—from Italian and Israeli to Indian and Chinese—and it’s definitely not catering to locals, but it’s a pleasant enough spot to unwind (they play fresh lounge tracks, have a library to browse, and offer laptops to surf the internet).

Penguin Garden Restaurant & German Bakery ECLECTIC/LIGHT FARE For a spacious, outdoorsy cafe experience, head to this laid-back hangout—it’s almost impossible to imagine the peace, quiet and twittering birds you’ll discover in this garden oasis where nostalgic Western music plays from speakers that decorate the apple trees that form a natural canopy above. Aside from being the most relaxed place in town, it’s a good place to try a few simple-but-special items. For starters, there’s always a large chunk of yak cheese displayed alongside the chocolate walnut cake, doughnuts, and croissants—at lunchtime, a yak cheese sandwich really fills the gap; it’s also the only place in town you’ll find avocado lassi, or a made-to-order watermelon ginger juice (simply delicious). The menu covers mostly Tibetan, India and Italian dishes, but you can also get basic comfort foods like chicken burgers, quiches, and even vegetable stroganoff. Healthy breakfasts, salads, and tandoor-grilled trout are also served.

Fort Rd. 94-1917-8630 or 99-0699-9896. www.penguinrestaurant.co.nr. Main courses Rs 55–Rs 170. No credit cards. June–Sept daily 7am–10:30pm.

The Tibetan Kitchen TIBETAN Tibetan fare is de rigueur in Leh, and after more than a decade, the town’s best restaurant does not disappoint, even if the new