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spa resorts: Ananda-in-the-Himalayas (reviewed below), located just outside Rishikesh itself. But for the most unusual and truly lovely place to stay, don’t miss The Glasshouse on the Ganges (reviewed below), which enjoys a remarkable location slap-bang on the edge of the great Ganga; if you book the right room, you can hear the waters roaring by from the comfort of your four-poster bed; in terms of value and location it gets our top recommendation but bear in mind it is about an hour from Rishikesh, and won’t suit those looking for a hotel with action. Also well situated on the river, about 19km (12 miles) from Rishikesh is Himalayan Hideaway ( 011/2685-2602; www.hhindia.com), a lodge owned by the couple who run the Himalayan River Runners outfit (their riverside camp is 2km/1 1⁄4 miles away). Accommodations are in stone cottages set in a forest near the Ganges (an 8-min. walk); all have air-conditioning and decent bathrooms (shower only) done out in stone and tile. Select a river-view room (Rs 4,900 double), gorge on delicious meals, go rafting, or while away the hours watching the river; trips to Rishikesh for sightseeing and the evening Ganga Aarti are easily arranged. If you really want to be near the action (and the noise), the most acceptable choice is Hotel The Great Ganga (Muni-ki-Reti, Rishikesh 249 201; 0135/244-2243; www.thegreatganga.com; doubles from Rs 2,790), which is fine if you just need a clean place to sleep and don’t plan on hanging around during the day. Some of the rooms have little terraces that overlook the Ganges, but be aware that you’ll be picking up a lot of traffic noise. Accommodations have marble floors, kitschy fabrics, and very firm mattresses, and the small tiled bathrooms have aging tubs. Do not even consider the suites, which are in a shabby apartment block next door.

Ananda-in-the-Himalayas At this destination spa, voted one of the best in the world, high-class pampering is the order of the day. The resort’s immaculate, palatial reception rooms are in the restored Viceregal Palace, while a short distance away is a characterless block, although with well-furnished and comfortable rooms, each with a balcony and a terrific view of the Rishikesh Valley. In between lie fabulously landscaped grounds and water features, several villas, each with a private pool, and the Wellness Center offering an overwhelming choice of relaxing, soothing, and restorative treatments provided by a lineup of excellent therapists from all over the world. From the moment you wake (to a steaming cup of honey, lemon, and ginger tea) until you retire to a bath (for which a candle is lit to heat fragrant essential oils) and bed (warmed by a hot-water bottle), you’ll feel extremely nurtured. There are also talks on spirituality, treks, yoga sessions, and escorted excursions to Rishikesh for the evening Ganga Aarti.

The Palace Estate, Narendra Nagar, Tehri Garhwal 249 175. 01378/22-7500. Fax 01378/22-7550 or 01378/22-7555. www.anandaspa.com. 78 units. $345 deluxe palace-view double; $405 deluxe valley-view double; $550–$860 suite; $980 1-bedroom villa with pool; $1,375 2-bedroom with pool. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; airport transfer (Rs 2,400; free w/spa packages, suites and villas); in-house doctor; 6-hole golf course; daily health and relaxation program; Internet (complimentary); jogging track; library; temperature controlled pool; room service; safaris; spa; squash court; trekking; white-water rafting. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player; hair dryer, minibar, pool (only in villas), Wi-Fi (complimentary).

The Glasshouse on the Ganges Spectacularly situated on the banks of the Ganges, 23km (14 miles) north of Rishikesh, this former garden retreat of the Maharajahs of Tehri Garhwal is thrillingly close to the sacred river; there’s even a little “beach” where you can swim in the clean, refreshing waters. Accommodations are divided into two categories: the main block, fronted by a pillared veranda with relaxing planter’s chairs, or in cottages in the lush gardens of hammock-strung trees and tropical plants (sadly the