India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [566]
23rd Milestone, Rishikesh-Badrinath Rd., Village and P.O. Gular-Dogi, Tehri-Garhwal District 249 303. 01378/26-9218. Reservations: 13 Main Market, New Delhi 110 013. 011/2435-6145 or 011/4182-5001. Fax 011/2435-1112. www.neemranahotels.com. 15 units. Rs 3,000–Rs 6,000 standard and “grand” doubles and triples; Rs 4,000 triple suite; Rs 6,000 luxury triple suite; Rs 8,000 Gangeshwari suite. Rs 800 extra bed; taxes extra. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; dining terrace; airport transfer (Rs 2,200, 2 days notice); doctor-on-call, Ayurvedic spa; yoga. In room: A/C, TV in some, no phone in some.
Saying Goodbye to the Ganga at the Gateway to God
Not exactly the lesser-known neighbor, Haridwar (Dwar of Hari, or “Gateway to God”) is even holier than Rishikesh—according to Hindu mythology, this is one of the four sacred sites where a drop of the nectar of immortality (amrita) accidentally fell (at a point referred to as Brahmakund) while being carried by the mythical bird Garuda (the other three sites are Nasik, Allahabad and Ujjain). This is also the point where the Ganga river leaves the hills to enter the plains. Most time-bound tourists give this sacred site a miss and while it is by no means a necessary stop, it does have a unique atmosphere, with literally hundreds of devotees gathering daily at har-ki-pauri for the evening arti (6:30pm). Unfortunately a tad commercial, you will be approached by seemingly innocent priests and touts who will first seat you comfortably and then ask for donations “if possible”—make your intentions to refuse clear beforehand. The ceremony isn’t as elaborate as the one in Varanasi or as hypnotic as Rishikesh but it’s interesting to observe the frenzied crowd, many of whom have traveled for days for this moment of devotion. That apart, the walk to har-ki-pauri, through narrow streets lined with all manner of fascinating shops (food like rabri—sweetened milk cooked for hours; copperware; traditional white and brown ceramic martabans or jars) and a trip to the many temples to see benignly smiling Gods dressed in loud gaudy colors can make for an interesting day or two. Thankfully, there is also now a fairly decent option to stay: Haveli Hari Ganga (Pilibhit House, 2 Ramghat, Haridwar; 01334-265207; www.leisurehotels.in; doubles from $100 with breakfast) is a traditional old mansion with airy courtyards, a private mini-ghat (steps leading into the river) and a temple with a morning and evening arti. Rooms are quirky—palace architecture broken by ill-fitting modern amenities, well-sprung mattresses on concrete platforms, original tiles, alcoves and niches; the best rooms have a terrace facing the river—delightful to watch seagulls pass by every few minutes while the Ganga glides past languidly.
2 Kumaon
It’s not hard to fathom why the British Raj claimed this eastern pocket of Himalayan India from Nepal in 1815. Free of the hustle and bustle of urban India and blessed with a gentle, laid-back quality, the Kumaon, studded with gorgeous lakes, not all of which are overcrowded with construction, is great for viewing breathtaking scenery, breathing in restorative oxygen-rich air, taking wonderful walks, and seeing decaying reminders of the British preoccupation with transforming remote villages into proper English towns. Prominent among these are Nainital and Ranikhet. Both are surrounded by pine forests and are good spots for taking a break; the latter is prettier and arguably the most evocative former British hill station in India. However, with the