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opening of Fisherman’s Lodge at Bhimtal (30km/19 miles from Nainital), we recommend giving Nainital a miss altogether, and heading straight for this restorative retreat. Kumaon is great road-trip country: A good route is to spend a couple of nights at Fisherman’s Lodge, possibly overnighting at Mukteshwar next, before setting off for Binsar or Almora—this is untouched Kumaon, with superb places to rest your head: other than the two stalwarts listed, there is the absolutely fabulous 360° at Leti, perhaps the most exclusive mountain resort in the country. Next, either head east to Ranikhet or return back south to Naukuchiatal (or Jilling) for your next stop, ending your journey at Corbett National Park. Wherever you overnight, the road journeys between these destinations are the real joy of the Kumaon; when you’re this close to gorgeous Himalayan mountain ranges, you simply cannot escape breathtaking views.

ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE & AROUND There are many trains heading out of both Delhi and Lucknow towards Kathgodam, 35km (22 miles) from Nainital. The overnight Ranikhet Express leaves Old Delhi at 10:45pm and arrives at 6:05am. There are always taxis (from Rs 500) and share-taxis available (from Rs 50 a seat), or you can have your hotel pick you up from the station. There are also overnight private deluxe buses (pick the Volvo; departure 9.30pm with 7:30am arrival; Rs 700 return) from Delhi to Nainital). Ranikhet is an additional 60km (37 miles) from Nainital, or a 31⁄2-hour journey from the Kathgodam railway station. Once you’ve found your bearings, hire a car (preferably a four-wheel-drive) and driver for the duration of your stay in Uttarakhand. You can expect to pay around Rs 14 per kilometer, plus an additional fee per day and a reasonable contribution (Rs 250) towards the driver’s overnight expenses.

VISITOR INFORMATION While in Delhi, you can visit the KMVN Tourist Information Office (103 Indraprakash Bldg., 21 Barakhamba Rd.; 011/4151-9366; fax 011/2331-9835; www.kmvn.org). In Nainital, the KMVN is at Oak Park House ( 05942/23-6356).

A ROAD TRIP THROUGH KUMAON

Your first stop, Nainital, is set around the ebony-emerald Naini Tal (Lake)—according to Hindu mythology, one of the eyes of Shiva’s wife, Sati. Naina Devi Temple is said to be the precise spot where Sati’s eye fell when her body parts were scattered throughout the country in a bid to stop Shiva’s “dance of cosmic destruction,” which began when he discovered that Sati had immolated herself, an act provoked by her father’s incessant insults of Shiva. High above the town, at 2,235m (7,450 ft.), is the aptly named Snow View, a hilltop area from where you can see Nanda Devi, India’s second-highest peak. Make use of the Aerial Express ropeway; round-trips (daily 10am–5pm) cost Rs 100. You can overnight here, but Nainital is as ghastly as most of Himachal’s towns, so we recommend you choose between the smaller Bhimtal or the picturesque Naukuchiatal (Nine-Cornered Lake)—both are under 30km (19 miles) away from Nainital, and there are recommended places in Where to Stay below. According to local folklore, when you get to a point where you can see all nine corners of the lake, make a wish and it will come true. This is certainly the case if you’re looking for picture-perfect serenity, solitude, and enchanting trails, filled with wildflowers. Even if you don’t opt to overnight here, make time for a day trip and take a leisurely ride or a swim in the lake. Alternatively, head north from Nainital to remote and lovely Mukteshwar some 50km (30 miles) away.

On a ridge some 2,254m (7,513 ft.) above sea level, where you are surrounded by little more than dramatic views of the Himalayas, conifer forests, fruit orchards, and fresh, clean air, Mukteshwar enjoys one of the most charming settings in the Kumaon. At the edge of town, atop a cliff, is century-old Mukteshwar Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. On the same hill is an ashram administered by a hermit whose disciples come from around the world. Behind the temple, a rocky cliff juts out of the hillside at Chauthi Jaali;