India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [568]
Then set off for Binsar for the best view in motorable Kumaon. Here, in another of the region’s most untouched areas, you can watch the sunrise over Nepal and the sun set on Garhwal. Time allowing, visit the Jageshwar Temple complex, and explore Binsar Sanctuary (Rs 100 per head, Rs 50 per car) for glimpses of Himalayan wildlife. Overnight at Kalmatia Sangam, in Almora (66km/41 miles from Nainital). Although there is little evidence that Almora, with its ramshackle display of concrete and tin, has a 500-year-old history, the town (34km/21 miles southwest of Binsar) does nevertheless attract westerners with its history of spiritual gurus and induction into the hippie circuit. The new or main town is avoidable but do walk through the old town where you will find interesting remnants of local architecture on both sides of a cobbled road; also look out for typical local products like copperware (Anokhi Lal Hari Kishan, Karkhana Bazaar; 94-1131-7500) and stinging nettle (see “Stinging Scarves” box). Alternatively, you could simply sign up for the wonderful 2- to 3-day village walks organized by Shakti (see where to stay below), ending at their gorgeous resort in Leti, after which Corbett would be the ideal end point.
If it is a choice between Nainital and Ranikhet (don’t have to cross Nainital to get to Ranikhet) then head straight for Ranikhet—surrounded by slopes draped with forests of thick pine and deodar and impeccable views of Nanda Devi. It exudes the ambience of a haunted English Gothic township, forever waiting for a cloak of thick mist and the echoes of a long-lost era to descend.
Whether you arrive from Nainital (60km/37 miles away) or Binsar, you’ll first encounter the typically Indian Sadar Bazaar, an unappealing town center that is entirely avoidable. Take the turnoff for the Mall, and head into the peaceful Cantonment area. Ranikhet is occupied by the army’s Kumaon Regiment, which maintains a strict code that seems to have had a positive impact on the Sleepy Hollow serenity evident here. You’ll encounter an abundance of flagstone colonial buildings topped by tin roofs, many used by the military and in fairly attractive condition, surrounded by hedges and greenery. Lower Mall Road, as you head farther south, is good for walks, with only ancient trees for company. Continue on, past 14th-century Jhula Devi Temple, and 10km (6 1⁄4 miles) south you’ll come upon the state-run Chaubatia Orchards, a great place (though best avoided May–June) for a picnic (ask your hotel to pack one).
From here it’s an easy drive to Corbett.
Stinging Scarves
Hemp bags and shawls—once all the rage—are now passé; the new “in,” manufactured by local Kumaonis, are stoles made from the stinging nettle. The plant is converted into fiber, and the resulting hand-woven stoles are stylish, soft, and ultra-luxurious; and no, they don’t itch. Initiated by a women’s cooperative, you can take a fascinating tour of the Panchachuli factory (Pataldevi Industrial Area; 05962/23-6817; www.panchachuli.com) which also has a shop attached. Or, if time is of essence, then head for the outlet in Almora market (Mall road; 05962/23-0968; from Rs 2,000).
Flower Power
En route from Naukuchiatal to Bhowali, make sure you stop at Fruitage, which sells apple chutney, apricot halves, and a refreshing rhododendron squash. Some species of rhododendron are believed to have medicinal qualities that cool you down (ideal on a hot day). In addition, the plant’s extracts (or honey produced from its nectar) are thought to alleviate cardiac problems, high blood pressure, and asthma. Connoisseurs of honey should also stop at the sleepy state-run apiary in Jeolikot, 17km (11 miles) from Nainital, famous for its pure wildflower honey. Sample unique, naturally occurring honey varieties like mustard, litchi, and eucalyptus.
WHERE TO STAY & DINE
The Kumaon Hills are dotted with laid-back, atmospheric accommodations that offer guests either a laid-back but relatively luxurious guest house experience such as Fisherman’s Lodge