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By Root 2082 0

or the more intimate experience of a homestay: an opportunity to mingle with Indian families who live in the hills—a wonderful reprieve from overcrowded tourist hubs, and a chance to really help the local communities as well. Note, though, that because these are not hotels, hot water in the bathrooms often comes via a geyser, which must be switched on when required (or in buckets carried into your bathroom). Room service is limited, and food cannot be rustled up in minutes, on demand. Other than the options listed below, take a look at Himalayan Lodges ( 98-1170-4651;www.himalayanlodges.com); the company has a good selection of comfortable homestay type properties throughout the region aimed at the more budget conscious traveler.

Nainital To Mukteshwar

Out of season, a good place to stay in Nainital is the Palace Belvedere ( 05942/23-7434; www.welcomheritagehotels.com). Built in 1897, this former summer palace offers a casual historic ambience with personal, attentive service. Book a lake-facing room (from Rs 6,400 double), which has an enclosed porch-cum-study (no. 19 is particularly large) from where the view of the sun rising over Nainital Lake is simply exquisite; bathrooms also have views of the lake. Other than this, consider The Naini Retreat ( 05942/23-5105 or -5108; www.leisurehotels.in). The gabled bluestone summer retreat of the Maharajah of Pilibhit, situated above Naini Lake, retains much of its charm. Standard (“deluxe”) rooms are neat but a tad cramped (book nos. 304–311; doubles from $150), so it’s best to reserve one of three “garden” units ($210), which share a common balcony, or opt for a lake-facing room ($230). Avoid staying there in the peak season when ghastly outdoor live music all but kills any illusion of being in a retreat. If you are on a budget a comfortable and interesting option is Balrampur House ( 05942/23-6236 or -9902; www.balrampurhotels.com; doubles from Rs 3,166), once the summer home of the Maharaja of Balrampur and now a heritage hotel run by his descendant Jayendra Pratap Singh.

Nainital offers many accommodations, but a visit during peak season is likely to be accompanied by crowds, noise, and irritation. Duck the crowds by opting for one of the following fully reviewed options, or for one of two recommendations at Naukuchiatal: Déjà-vu (reservations through Corbett Trails, New Delhi; 011/4282-8232; www.naukuchiatal.com; Rs 2,000 per person per night) is a small, cozy, two-bedroom stand-alone cottage overlooking the lake. It comes with cable TV, DVD and music system, as well as housekeeping attendants and a cook who will prepare meals on demand; you just need to pay for ingredients. Be prepared for frequent power cuts although there is a backup inverter. For more hotel-style amenities (albeit in a concrete and stone block with plenty of face-brick and mortar), The Lake Resort ( 05942/24-7183 or -7184; www.lakeresort.in; from Rs 2,400 double) is a newer hotel whose sprawling grounds hug Naukuchiatal Lake. Every room has a view of the lake; ask for the pricier log hut with wooden floors and a bathtub for two. Room nos. 1, 5, and 12 have lounge areas and fine views, but bathrooms are small. But, should you opt to overnight at Bhimtal, Fisherman’s Lodge is the perfect choice.

The Cottage This 100-year-old house set in a 3-hectare (8-acre) orchard has herringbone-patterned wood floors, ivy-covered stone walls, and a sloping red tiled roof—all of which give it a distinctly English appearance and old-world charm, offset by the carved Kumaoni door and window frames. Each room has a private patio with wonderful views of lush green mountains. The Middle Room (where floral drapes decorating the ceiling are a tad kitschy) is the best in the house; the Blue Room is great for more privacy and better views, but a little too blue. The bed heights in the various guest rooms have been thoughtfully adjusted to give guests the best possible views. Simple, tasty meals are served in the homey living room/dining area.

Jeolikot, District Nainital 263 002. 05942/22-4013. Fax 05942/22-4182 www.thecottagejeolikot.com.