India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [570]
Emily Lodge This colonial-era bungalow is the nicest homestay in Nainital. Gracious hosts Siddharth Singh and his family have a homey cottage well away from the main mall, decorated in subdued floral drapes and country-home decor. Figures of elephants and birds stenciled on the walls give the place a lively ambience in spite of the hunting-lodge atmosphere created by the old teak wood furniture, deer horns, swords, and rifles adorning the walls. Warm and comfortable, the living room has an old fireplace that’s lighted at mealtimes in cold weather; it’s also where wholesome home-cooked meals are served. Rooms are clean and bathrooms spacious. Jim Corbett’s house (Gurney House) is just a stone’s throw away, and if you are lucky the caretaker might let you in.
Ayarpata Hill, near Sherwood College, Nainital 263 002. 05942/23-5857 or 99-1702-1129; http://emilylodgenainital.com. 4 units (with en-suite showers). Rs 2,000–Rs 2,800 double; extra bed Rs 400. Rates include breakfast, tea/coffee. No credit cards. Amenities: Dining hall; railway transfers (Rs 500); board games; bonfire on request; doctor-on-call.
Fishermen’s Lodge Rated as the best Specialty Lodging in Bhimtal by Tripadvisor and among the top 10 boutique destinations in India by local travel magazine Outlook Traveller, Fishermen’s Lodge basks in the warm comfort that is generated by a place that feels like one’s own home. Owners Bunty and Bindu have invested real effort into creating a tasteful, relaxing lodge, and impeccably trained staff. Rooms are spacious with wonderfully simple, classy interiors; the piece de resistance is the common deck overlooking the lake—having sundowners here to the accompaniment of a fabulous repertoire of nostalgic music tunes is a highlight (guests are allowed to carry their own alcohol as there is no liquor license at the Lodge). All the activities—hikes, angling, cycling—allow you to rake up an appetite for the delicious meals served by the affable Suman who will be happy to send you off with some of his culinary secrets.
Mandir Marg, Bhimtal 263 136. 0594/224-7052 or 94-1110-7852; www.thefishermenslodge.com. Reservations: 99-1016-2244. 12 units. Rs 8,000 double; Rs 6,000 single; additional bed (above 12 years old) Rs 2,000. Rates include breakfast, high tea and dinner. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Dining hall; railway transfers (Rs 500); angling; cycling; doctor-on-call; hiking. In room: Fan, fridge, heater, Wi-Fi (complimentary).
Jilling Estate For a real outback experience in a magnificent setting, just 17km (11 miles) from Nainital, Jilling Estate is your best choice—though not for the fainthearted or unfit. Access to this huge estate, where arch-conservationist Steve Lall, his wife, Parvati, and daughter Nandini live a couple of miles from the nearest drivable road, is only by foot or horseback; and you’ll have to lug yourself up this distance just to get through the front door. All four cottages are completely private—you won’t run into your neighbors even by chance. Facilities are rustic but extremely quaint; each room has an eclectic collection of books, and hot water for your bucket bath is heated on wooden fires by an attendant assigned to your room. Evenings are spent around a bonfire with the Lalls and their friendly mutts. Steve may even encourage you to go for a completely private hike in the woods of his estate, in the buff. Or let Parvati teach you how to milk cows.
P.O. Padampuri, District Nainital 263 136. 97-5875-5704. Reservations: Neelam Rai Singh, Beckon Tours Pvt. Ltd., G22 1st floor, Lajpat Nagar Part 1, New Delhi 110 024. 011/2981-3546 or -1796. Fax 011/2981-4259. www.jilling.net. 4 units (bucket showers only). $90 double. Rate includes all meals; taxes extra. No credit cards. Amenities: Campfire; camping; picnic baskets; room service; table tennis; trekking.
Mountain