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By Root 1980 0

his city, who provides in-depth tours of Kolkata ( 033/2350-1576 or 98-3024-2803). He charges Rs 1,500 per day irrespective of the number of people (all entrance and transport costs to be paid by tourists). Other than organizing festivals, Action Research in Conservation of Heritage conducts excellent heritage walks (usually on Sun) of northern Kolkata and Dalhousie Square ( 033/2359-6303 or 033/2337-5757; www.centrearch.org; Rs 350 per person). Alternatively, you could get in touch with Husna-Tara Prakash ( 033/2288-5630), the charming owner of the amazing Glenburn Tea Estate (reviewed later) who, along with an expert team of guides, conducts walks throughout the city—the rates are far higher than others mentioned here but inclusive of an air-conditioned vehicle, breakfast, entry fees and little personal touches that make it worthwhile. The Tourism Centre (3/2 B.B.D. Bagh E.; 033/2248-8271 or -8272) conducts two different daily sightseeing tours of the city; these inevitably involve a great deal of bus travel and little sightseeing. In the same center, the West Bengal Tourist Development Corporation ( 033/2243-7260) organizes short and long-distance tours of the state and selected destinations around the country.

Kolkata

Airlines Jet Airways: 033/3989-3333. Kingfisher Airlines: 1800-1800-101. Air Sahara: 1600-22-3020. Indian Airlines: 033/2511-9720.

Ambulance Bellevue Clinic, 9 Loudon St. ( 93318-41265 or 98318-21850) has a 24-hour ambulance service.

American Express The office is located at 21 Old Court House St., near Raj Bhavan ( 033/2222-3001 or -3026). Open Monday to Friday 10am to 2pm and Saturday 10am to noon.

Area Code The area code for Kolkata is 033.

ATMs There are plenty of 24-hour ATMs: Citibank (Kanak Bldg., 41 J.L. Nehru [Chowringhee] Rd.; 033/2283-2484), UTI Bank (7 Shakespeare Sarani; 033/2282-2933), HDFC Bank (Stephen House, 4 B.B.D. Bagh E.; 033/2210-7546), Standard Chartered Grindlays Bank (41 J.L. Nehru [Chowringhee] Rd.; 033/2242-8888), and HSBC Bank (8 Netaji Subhash Rd., 31 B.B.D. Bagh; 033/2243-8585).

Banks Most banks are open Monday to Friday 10am to 2 or 3pm, and Saturday 10am to noon.

Car Rentals Contact Car-Cab (2, Manook Lane, off Ezra St., Kolkata 1; 033/2235 -3535), Rs 90/hour for a maximum of 50km (31 miles). Avis Rent-A-Car is at The Oberoi Grand (15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd.; 033/2249-2323, ext. 6325 or 6335).

Consulates United States: 5/1 Ho Chi Minh Sarani; 033/2282-3611; Monday to Friday 8am to 1pm and 2 to 5pm. United Kingdom: 1A Ho Chi Minh Sarani; 033/2288-5172; Monday to Friday 8:30am to 1pm and 1:30 to 4pm. Canada: Duncan House, 31 N.S. Rd.; 033/2230-8515; Monday to Friday 9:30am to 1pm.

Currency Exchange Thomas Cook is at 19B Shakespeare Sarani, first floor ( 033/2283-0473 or -0475); hours are Monday to Saturday 9:30am to 6pm.

Drugstores Twenty-four-hour chemists include AMRI Apollo Hospital Pharmacy (P4 Gariahat Rd., Block A-29; 033/2461-2626, ext. 606), Dhanwantary (48A/1 Diamond Harbour Rd.; 033/2449-3204), Jeevan Deep (1-14B Hazra Rd.; 033/2455-0926), and Life Care (1/2A Hazra Rd.; 033/2475-4628).

Emergencies For fire brigade, dial 101 or 033/2244-0101.

Hospitals Belle Vue Clinic (9 U.N. Brahmachari St.; 033/2287-2321, -6921, -6925, or -7473) also has a blood bank. There are English-speaking doctors at the 24-hour B.M. Birla Heart Research Center (1/1A National Library Ave.; 033/2456-7001 to -7009).

Newspapers & Magazines Peruse the pages of The Statesman, one of India’s oldest English dailies, for information about special events. Kolkata’s other very popular paper is The Telegraph, which has a metro section that lists local events.

Police Dial 100 or 033/2250-5000 through -5004. Police headquarters are in Lal Bazaar ( 033/2214-3230 or -3024).

Post Office B.B.D. Bagh; Monday to Saturday 8am to 8:30pm and Sunday 8am to 3:30pm.

Sorry, Wrong Number . . .

Dial 1952 for a recorded message (in English) if the number you’re dialing has been changed.

The Tollywood Oscar Achiever

Kolkata has its own film industry, known throughout the Bengali world as Tollywood. In fact,