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By Root 2026 0

the country, but the grande dame of festivals is the Durga Puja (signifying the return of the goddess to her parents’ home), the most sacred festival for the Bengalis. Though it is celebrated with much pomp all over northeastern India, Kolkata does it best, and if you’re traveling here in September or October you simply have to include Kolkata in your itinerary. Literally every family is involved, not just in their own celebrations, but also as participants of the collective neighborhood presentation of Goddess Durga. Pandals, a kind of marquee used to shelter the idol, abound in the city, and have over the last decade become a commercial enterprise, with lucrative cash prizes for the most impressive—this has led to some highly innovative designs, where the raw materials include everything from bamboo and cloth to futuristic high-tech gizmos. The mode of transport for Durga is declared by the pundits just before the festival commences, and for many orthodox Bengalis, it is a sign of what awaits them in the coming year—for instance, an elephant could mean prosperity, while a boat may signify natural disasters. The festivities last for 4 days, with dances and frenzied drumming, lots of food, and endless bouts of shopping—it is mayhem on a grand scale and well worth experiencing. On the last day, idols (ranging from 1 inch to grandiose figures of over 9m/30 ft.) are immersed in the Hoogly, which carries many a prayer into deeper realms.

Santiniketan: Where the World Makes a Home in a Single Nest

Known as the intellectual capital of India, Bengal has given birth to plenty of big personalities, but the one every Indian is most familiar with is the Nobel laureate Rabindranath Tagore. His collected works are easily available in any bookshop or library but the literary domain was not the only one he contributed to. Visit his creation Viswa Bharati University (which means communion of the world with India) at Santiniketan, 160km (99 miles) from Kolkata, where you will find a unique setting for imparting education, with classes held in the open; much the same way as the ancient Indian school system (gurukul). Education takes on a different meaning here and with prior appointment, you can spend time amid students and teachers to learn more. If you decide to stay overnight, you could opt for one of the four guesthouses on campus (contact PRO) or try the simple but charming Hotel Chhuti Holiday resort ( 033/3293-4545;www.chhutiresort.com) or Hotel Camellia ( 03463/54-778;www.camelliagroup.org). (Note: Nearby, the exquisite terra-cotta temples of Kalna are an added incentive to make the trip.) Santiniketan, Birbhum, West Bengal 731 235. 03463/26-2751, or PRO 03463/26-2626; www.visva-bharati.ac.in. Closed on Wednesday.

WHERE TO STAY

Decent budget rooms are all but nonexistent in Kolkata, and quality mid-range accommodations are also hard to find. That said, for rooms under Rs 5,000 you have two good options, both downtown in the busy Chowringhee area. Fairlawn Hotel is a famous option (see below) but Middleton Inn, a neat 21-room business hotel at 10 Middleton St. ( 033/2265-0449 through -0451) may suit you more. The Inn’s dull entrance belies the scrupulously clean deluxe air-conditioned doubles that go for just Rs 4,400, including breakfast. Service in general is crisp and courteous, and though there’s no restaurant, they have 24-hour room service. If neither of these options is available and you don’t have the budget for one of the higher-end properties below, you could consider either of the following two: The Peerless Inn ( 033/4400-3900; www.peerlesshotels.com) or The Kenilworth ( 033/2282-3939; www.kenilworthhotels.com); both are well located (a few hops in case you want a slice of nightlife at The Park or shop in the New Market area) and in the same range of doubles from Rs 10,000, but the former is by far more popular with visitors, perhaps due to the friendly service that it’s come to be known for. Note however, that they are rather bland and useful purely in a functional way.

Fairlawn Hotel This aged family run institution,