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still managed by 86-year-old Mrs. Smith, remains popular with people who are not too finicky about service, and are quite prepared to trade modern furnishings and fittings for character and quirkiness (not to mention great location and rates). News clippings, hotel awards, and copious family and celebrity photographs cover the walls, while old wicker chairs, vases, decorative plates, and even Buddhas and Ganeshas are used to create a homey atmosphere. Guest rooms (book nos. 16–21) are cozy, if simply furnished. In the kitchen, a wood- and coal-fire stove is used to prepare wholesome home-style meals from a menu that changes daily, but meal times are strict. Service standards have lagged significantly of late, and the heritage property is really showing signs of wear and tear, so please don’t overnight here if you prefer pristine accommodations and don’t mind bland, functional places (such as the Middleton Inn; see above).

13/A Sudder S., Kolkata 700 016. 033/2252-1510 or -8767. Fax 033/2252-1835. www.fairlawnhotel.com. 18 units. Rs 2,600 double with breakfast; extra bed Rs 1,000. 20% discount Apr–Sept. AE, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; small library; room service. In room: A/C, TV, fridge (in some).

Hyatt Regency If it’s a design-conscious luxury-cum-business hotel near the airport you’re after, book yourself into the Hyatt, right next door to Swabhumi Heritage Park in the rapidly expanding business district of Salt Lake City, a good 45 minutes away from the tourist hub. Stylish rooms (174 of which are nonsmoking) have warm teak-wood floors, sunken baths, panoramic floor-to-ceiling windows, and walk-in closets. The large pool is backed by tall trees, while inside, a trendy cigar lounge appears suspended in midair. It’s a schlep getting into the city from here, but if you’re more or less in transit, with just a day to spare in Kolkata, this is a very good option, particularly if the rate drops to $150 double, which it does at certain times—check the website for the latest “Rate of the Day” tariff.

JA-1, Sector III, Salt Lake City, Kolkata 700 098. 033/2335-1234. Fax 033/2335-1235. www.kolkata.regency.hyatt.com. Toll-free reservations from within India: 1-800/228-001. 233 units. There is no fixed tariff with the Hyatt working on a “Rate of the Day” system fluctuating between $150–$400 double, depending on the month; check the website or call reservations. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 3 restaurants; bar; pool bar; airport transfer (Rs 1,124); bakery; babysitting; concierge; doctor-on-call; fitness center and spa; outdoor pool (adult and child); room service; squash; outdoor tennis; valet service; Wi-Fi (Rs 250/hr., Rs 900/day). In room: A/C, TV, hair dryer, Internet (Rs 250/hr).

ITC Sonar, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Kolkata If you want to stay far from the congested heart of Kolkata, like large open spaces, and want the pampering of a good spa, this “business resort” hotel offers just that. (If, however, you want the added benefits of having the sights on your doorstep and prefer not to deal with endless taxi rip-offs, The Oberoi Grand and The Park are better.) The ITC looks from the outside like the quintessential grotesque concrete structure rising from open marshland; once inside, you’ll find a soporific escape. Courtyards and lily ponds separate accommodations blocks; the rooms to ask for are the ITC One rooms, with bathrooms which overlook natural light courts and the Olympic-sized pool and spa are welcome respites after a day trudging Kolkata’s streets. Schedule a meal at Dum Pukht or Peshawri to get a taste of Awadhi or North West Frontier cuisine, respectively. And for those keen to travel responsibly, it’s worth knowing that ITC Sonar Kolkata takes its role in reducing the hospitality sector’s carbon footprint very seriously: The first hotel in the world to successfully register for Clean Development Mechanism Project under UNFCCC, it is also committed to environmental practices as per ISO 14001 Management System & British Safety Council Environmental Practices.

1 JBS Haldane Ave., opposite Science City (Eastern