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(Indian cheese) topped off with chaat masala, onion, and lemon juice—simply delicious. The hygiene at many of these places is often suspect, so look for a stall with lots of customers. (Try Kusum at 21 Park St., the one outside Oxford Book Store; or another stall next to Peter Cat.) Order the double-side egg mutton roll. Puchkas (deep-fried hollow balls made of wheat, filled with mashed and spiced potato along with tangy mint), omelet bread (where the bread is cooked inside the egg!), and jhalmuri (a truly delicious mix of a dozen snack items, served dry or with onions, tomatoes, and spicy chutneys), are also favorites with the local people and a must-have if you really want a taste of Kolkatan life.

Baan Thai THAI The Oberoi’s Baan Thai is one of those rare places where you are assured of real authenticity, with chefs Thida and Prayong earning many accolades in the last 3 years. Start with kai rue koong hor bai toey (marinated chicken or prawn morsels wrapped in pandana leaf, deep fried, and served with soy sesame dip) or the som tam esan (tangy salad of young papaya, peanut, and tomato dressed with lemon juice and palm). Follow this with the best tom yam soup in the country. For the mains, traditional flat rice noodles goes great with spicy green curry, pla kapong/phet samros (deep-fried bekti [fish]/duck in spicy sweet and sour sauce), patani (stir-fried lamb with ginger), or kai takrai (traditional stir-fried chicken)—all winners. You must order a most refreshing Chendol Ice (pineapple juice and coconut milk). The ambience is nicer in the evening, but if it’s purely the cuisine you’re after, any time is a good time.

The Oberoi Grand, 15 Jawaharlal Nehru Rd., Kolkata. 033/2249-2323. Fax 033/2249-1217. www.oberoihotels.com. Average meal for 2 Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:30pm and 7:30–11:30pm.

Chinoiserie CHINESE The finest Chinese restaurant in Kolkata dishes out delicious Szechuan and Cantonese cuisine. Centered around a beautiful raindrop chandelier, with private corners for business lunches and romantic dinners, cloth paintings done by an artist from Shantiniketan, photographs of ancient Chinese artifacts, and, bizarrely, a blues and soul soundtrack—Chinoiserie breaks all stereotypes. If the menu proves bewildering, turn to chef Lian for guidance, but be warned: He is passionate about almost everything! Our recommendation would be to start with crispy duck with pancakes and sweet bean sauce or the delicious banana fish roll. Amazingly light golden-fried prawns are accompanied by Lian’s special green sauce. For the main course try stir-fried chicken with pickled chilies, braised Chinese cabbage with ginger, and fish with oyster sauce. End with white fungus (which, contrary to its name, is delicious) or tofu with coconut—and pair the meal with cups of Chinese tea. Unlike in most other Chinese restaurants, the emphasis here is on flavor, which comes across in everything you eat.

Taj Bengal, 34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore. 033/2223-3939. www.tajhotels.com. Average meal for 2 Rs 2,000. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm.

Fire and Ice ITALIAN When Annamaria started out selling tomato sauce to hotels it probably never crossed her mind that a decade later she would be serving her brand of simple, authentic Italian in two restaurants (in India and Nepal). Fire and Ice is excellent value for money and the spacious restaurant an unpretentious haven, with exposed brick walls, photographs of Hollywood and Bollywood classics, and an open kitchen where you can see Annamaria puttering around, making sure the pizzas are just right. The antipasta misto and penne pesto are highly recommended, as is the Fire of Bengal pizza. Make sure you save space for the delicious homemade apple pie served with imported vanilla ice cream. The evenings are great here specially since they got their liquor license, but it’s also a lovely place to hang out during the day over a cup of excellent coffee or iced tea.

Kanak Bldg., 41, J.L. Nehru Rd., opposite Jeevan Deep Bldg. 033/2288-4073.www.fireandicepizzeria.com. Meal for 2