India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [593]
The Hub ECLECTIC A highlight here is the “food theater” experience, during which guests can watch a five-course meal being prepared, and then dig into the results. Start with the intriguing souplike concoction called porcini cappuccino (porcini mushrooms, white wine, pepper, cream, and butter), followed by the pan-fried bhetki (fish) with grilled vegetables, white wine, and garlic bisque sauce; leave enough space to end with the scrumptious mud pie with banana caramel ice cream. You could also opt to save a visit for its fabulous Sunday brunch.
Taj Bengal, 34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore. 033/2223-3939. www.tajhotels.com. Main courses Rs 450–Rs 1,500; buffet Rs 800. Food theater Rs 425–Rs 850. Sun brunch Rs 1,395. AE, DC, MC, V. Open 24 hr.
Kewpie’s BENGALI Popular with local celebrities and bigwig visitors to the city, this tiny family kitchen has been well marketed but is not necessarily the most authentic (for that you’re better off visiting Suruchi, ideally combined with a visit to South Park Cemetery). The menu changes daily, but the highlight is Kewpie’s thali (multicourse platter)––various fish, vegetable, and meat items (or strictly vegetarian items), served with different breads.
2 Elgin Lane, off Heysham Rd., behind Netaji Bhavan. 033/2486-1600 or -9929. Nonvegetarian thali Rs 415 per person. MC, V. Tues–Sun 12:30–3pm and 7:30–11pm.
Saffron CONTEMPORARY INDIAN/FUSION Saffron’s executive chef Rajiv Khullar has transformed the menu to showcase local Bengali cuisine as well as a host of Pan-Indian specialties, all cooked strictly using Indian methods, but often with ingredients from around the world. The daab chingri, prawns simmered in coconut milk gravy, is a real treat, as is the jhalfarezi masala duck. Shahtoosh kebab, a chicken filet marinated with pistachio and cooked in a tandoor is guaranteed to melt in your mouth and is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. Or try the more traditional saffron-infused kacchi gosht biryani or chicken Chettinad. Vegetarians are also well catered to. Leave space for creative desserts like mishthi doi mousse (traditional Bengali sweet curd made into mousse) and notun gurer rasmalai ice cream—they even have a sampler if you share the same weakness as the Bengalis for sweets.
The Park hotel, 17 Park St. 033/2249-9000. www.theparkhotels.com. Main courses Rs 355–Rs 795. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:45–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm (last orders).
Sonargaon BENGALI/NORTH INDIAN Exposed stone masonry, a well, whitewashed walls, wooden tables, tribal wall hangings, a separate fish-market kitchen (where guests can watch their fish being cooked), and enormous storm lanterns set the atmosphere for this upmarket take on village-style North Indian and Bengali dining. Order a large glass of the most delicious ganne ka ras (fresh sugar cane juice) to go along with a traditional Bengali thali (multicourse meal; it’s not on the menu, but you can order it in advance), served on a silver platter, and give yourself plenty of time to recover; diners tend to leave with full stomachs. For an excellent starter, get the melt-in-your-mouth kakori kebab (tender minced mutton kebab blended with rose petals, cardamom, saffron, and secret spices), introduced by Sonargaon to Kolkata 15 years ago. Leave space for rossogolla payesh, a Bengali dessert made from paneer (cheese) and thickened sweet milk or the innovative Baileys kulfi (frozen thick ice-cream-like milk dessert flavored with Baileys Irish Cream).
Taj Bengal, 34B Belvedere Rd., Alipore. 033/2223-3939; www.tajhotels.com. Main courses Rs 395–Rs 800. AE, DC, MC, V. Daily 12:30–2:45pm and 7:30–11:45pm.
Zaranj NORTHWEST FRONTIER Named for a hamlet in Afghanistan, this upmarket restaurant is one of the city’s most opulent dining options, where miniature waterfalls and plush seating provide a warm, luxurious atmosphere. The Raphael Lounge is an ideal spot to kick off the evening in style, with its fine selection of imported wines and champagnes. Affable manager Protik Dey will help you pick fare to suit your taste