India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [598]
Best time to visit: Oct–Mar.
Dhauli The glistening, white-domed Shanti Stupa (Peace Pagoda) at the top of Dhauli Hill is visible from the main road as you head toward this site, where historic Ashokan rock edicts are carved. Guarded by pale yellow Ashokan lions, the Kalinga World Peace Pagoda is a celebration of Ashoka’s decision, 2,300 years ago, to renounce violence and war and embrace Buddhism—a decision made in the wake of his massacre against the Kalinga people, then rulers of Orissa. A plaque here notes that Ashoka built 84,000 stupas (commemorative cairns), some as far away as Greece.
Free admission. Daily 5am–8pm.
Museum of Tribal Art and Artifacts Everything connected with the life of Orissa’s tribal people is on display in the exhibition rooms at this newly built museum decorated with primitive murals. Traditional costumes, jewelry, household appliances, and hunting equipment such as bows and arrows, axes, and traps for birds and fish indicate the ways of life of the tribal peoples of Orissa.
Near C.R.P. Sq., NH 5. 0674/256-1635 or -3649. Free admission. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm; closed 2nd Sat of each month.
Orissa State Museum This collection convincingly explains the religious context of Hindu sculptures, but you may be more fascinated by the erotic friezes that date back as far as the 7th century A.D. Upstairs, the Manuscript Gallery includes early examples of the type of work you’ll encounter in some Orissan crafts villages. Along with a collection of musical instruments, a number of dioramas depict different Orissan tribes. Next door is a collection of patachitra (cloth) paintings dealing primarily with the Jagannath cult and tales from the Ramayana.
Lewis Rd., near Kalpana Sq. 0674/243-1597. Rs 50. Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.
Rajarani Temple Surrounded by open space and paddy fields, this 11th-century temple—maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India—glimmers in the light of day, built as it was using a superior-quality burgundy-gold sandstone. Unusual for Orissan temples, the tower (shikhara) features miniature versions of itself. Sculptural representations of lotus flowers with the guardians of the eight cardinal directions are a standout feature of the temple walls, which also feature delightful female figures engaged in mundane (but beautiful) daily activities.
Tankapani Rd. Rs 220. Daily 6am–6pm.
Udaygiri and Khandagiri caves Barely 7km (4 1⁄3 miles) from the chaos of Bhubaneswar, the twin caves of Udaygiri and Khandagiri were once home to aspiring Jain monks. They were built in the 1st century B.C. by King Kharevala, and each complex numbers roughly 15 to 18 caves. Of the two, Udaygiri is more interesting, with caves filled with ornate carvings—look for caves 1, 3, 5, 9, 10, and 14; Khandagiri’s cave no. 3 is also rich in carvings. If you go in the evening, the atmosphere gets a little more interesting, with monkeys gamboling from one cave to another and the odd lone sadhu playing his flute. The caves bathed in golden light around sunset look very beautiful and serene despite the tourist influx. (For those academically interested in other cave sites, the Lalitgiri, Udaigiri, and Ratnagiri trio are located 100km (62 miles) from Bhubanswar and contain Buddhist excavations, sculptures and stupas. Note that these are entirely lacking in nearby infrastructure.)
Small entry fee. Daily 8am–6pm.
Where to Stay
Mayfair Lagoon Not as luxe or delightfully serene as the Trident, the Mayfair is nevertheless hugely popular with the international corporate world and Indian