India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [599]
8-B Jaydev Vihar, Bhubaneswar 751 013. 0674/236-0101. Fax 0674/236-0236. www.mayfairhotels.com. 102 units. Rs 8,000 executive cottage/club room; Rs 14,000 deluxe cottage/club suite; Rs 28,000 villa; Rs 1,500 extra bed. Check website for online specials. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: 4 restaurants; 2 bars; airport transfer (Rs 800); babysitting; butler service; concierge; currency exchange; doctor-on-call; outdoor pool; room service; spa. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player; hair dryer, Jacuzzi and a lake-view deck (only villas), minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 331/hr., Rs 899/day).
Trident Hilton Situated some distance out of the city center, this classy low-rise hotel is surrounded by 5.6 hectares (14 acres) of exquisite lawns, mango groves, and rock gardens. Drawing businesspeople, travelers, and even the English cricket team, this is Bhubaneswar’s most fabulous, and expensive, hotel. Stepping inside the lobby is like entering a temple, sans the usual chaos brought by thronging worshipers. The space has been carefully designed with stone columns, beautiful brickwork, and trellised railings enhanced by concealed lighting and spectacular brass-bell lighting features. Mythical lions perch above, looking down on guests as they arrive, and in the evenings, live Indian music is featured. Guest rooms are smart, stylish, and well laid out. Bird-watchers should ask for a room facing the rose garden. The kitchen will prepare a picnic basket for you should you be heading out on a long day of temple-exploring.
C.B.-1, Nayapalli, Bhubaneswar 751 013. 0674/230-1010. Fax 0674/230-1302. www.tridenthotels.com. 62 units. Rs 11,000 deluxe room; Rs 14,000 junior suite; Rs 18,000 executive suite; Rs 22,500 presidential suite. Check website for online specials. AE, DC, MC, V. Amenities: Restaurant; bar; airport transfer (Rs 729); babysitting; badminton court; doctor-on-call; jogging track; pool; room service; 2 floodlit tennis courts. In room: A/C, TV, DVD player (in suites), hair dryer, minibar, Wi-Fi (Rs 200/hr., Rs 700/day).
Where to Dine
Ignore the seedy neighborhood and dour look of the lodge where this upstairs eatery, Venus Inn (217 Bapuji Nagar; 0674/253-1908), is and you’ll find a good location for a quick South Indian dosa. Soft Hindi music fills the neat, clean interior as you dine on butter paper masala dosa (crepe-thin filled pancake), the onion rawa masala dosa, a dosa stuffed full of potato, or an uttapam (thicker pancake) with coconut. For the best chicken in town, Cook’s Kitchen (260 Bapuji Nagar; 0674/253-0025) is the place to be—chicken tikka butter masala is for those who can handle their spices. Order an Orissan thali at Swosti Plaza’s Chandan ( 0674/230-1936 through -1939; www.swostiplaza.com), where waiters can talk you through the evening’s selection while old Hindi film music provides prerecorded entertainment. The menu changes daily, but a typical selection might include fragrant dry Oriya mutton (mangsha kasha); Rohu fish (beware of the fine bones) cooked in a mustard sauce (sorisa machha); traditionally prepared mixed vegetables (santula); and soft paneer (Indian cheese) cooked under charcoal and then caramelized (chhena poda)—all served with breads and condiments on a brass platter.
Hare Krishna VEGETARIAN You won’t find garlic or onion (Hare Krishna culinary no-nos) in the vegetarian dishes served at this surreally decorated restaurant reached via a series of Art Deco linoleum steps. The food is rich and flavorful, so don’t overorder. Lord Krishna’s favorite is apparently Govinda’s Pasanda, a paneer (Indian cheese) based dish that