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Osho International Meditation Resort in the city of Pune (near Mumbai; www.osho.com; see chapter 5). It’s aimed at those who aren’t concerned with giving up the real world while they search for enlightenment. Here, you’re surrounded by 20 hectares (50 acres) of lush greenery (styled on the Japanese water garden), and the campus consists of marvelous pyramidal meditation halls, with a stylish Zen-styled guesthouse, cafes, the esoteric “Multiversity,” magnificent swimming pool, and recreation facilities. For Rs 550 per day (excluding accommodation), you can fill your day with a variety of inward-looking activities, ranging from the intensive early morning “Dynamic Meditation” to the slightly surreal “Evening Meeting of the Brotherhood of the White Robe,” during which you get to focus on Osho’s voice, recorded during his time on earth. There’s another Osho retreat near Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh, but it’s less welcoming of people who aren’t already familiar with Osho’s teachings .

One of India’s most ancient meditation techniques is Vipassana, which translates as “seeing things as they really are.” Taught at 10-day residential courses at many centers around the country, this program is not for the fickle—during the course of the program you must adhere to a strict code of conduct, such as consuming nothing after midday. For many, however, the hardest part of the course is the rule of absolute silence, in which you’re not allowed to speak (or read) a word for the first 9 days. The lack of any form of entertainment or sensory stimulation as well is meant to assist true inner awakening. This is certainly one of the most authentic meditation programs you will find anywhere, and one not based on devotion to a single guru or charismatic personality. The course is also absolutely free with no charges for food and board. Check out www.dhamma.org for more details.

For meditation in the Tibetan Mahayana Buddhist tradition, Tushita Meditation Centre (www.tushita.info), a few miles north of Mcleodganj, offers short- and long-term programs for beginners as well as the experienced. Unlike Vipassana courses, which are more or less secular and nonsectarian, Tushita courses include teaching of Buddhist philosophy and religion as well as different meditation techniques.

If all this sounds too committed, Sudarshan Kriya, the revered Sri Sri Ravi Shankar’s highly acclaimed breathing and meditation technique, can be learned through courses conducted by The Art of Living Foundation throughout India. For details, see the sidebar “Learn the ‘Art of Living’ with India’s Hot New Age Guru” or visit www.artofliving.org.

YOGA For seriously dedicated yoga students willing to make a commitment of at least a month, the country has several well-known centers. Be aware, however, that at most of these places, room facilities are rather basic. The Bihar School of Yoga has an ashram on the banks of the Ganga in Munger, Bihar, where students come from around the world, usually for at least 4 months (www.yogavision.net). Requiring at least 1 month of dedicated practice is the hugely popular (and highly regarded) Shri K. Pattabhi Jois Ashtanga Yoga Institute in Mysore, where the fee of Rs 27,530 for the first month (Rs 17,416 for each subsequent month) is heftier than most, and does not include room and board (see www.kpjayi.org); note, however, that the venerated yoga master who founded the institute (or shala), Krishna Pattabhi Jois (aka Guruji), passed away in May 2009. For yoga in the tradition of that most famous of Indian yoga gurus, BKS Iyengar, you can contact the regional center in Mumbai. The courses at the Pune headquarters are only for long-term yoga experts and are booked up to 2 years in advance (www.bksiyengar.com). Less intensive, and more flexible for the traveler, is the Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre (www.hiyogacentre.com). This visitor-friendly organization has retreats in two locations: in Goa right on the sand dunes at Arambol Beach, and in Dharamkot (an hour’s drive from Dharamsala, in Himachal Pradesh).

ASHRAMS For those travelers