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By Root 1937 0

intent on working on their dharma and karma, destinations such as Varanasi (Uttar Pradesh), Bodhgaya (Bihar), Rishikesh, and Haridwar (both in Uttarakhand) have numerous centers, each providing some direction to an individuals’ spiritual quest. In Rishikesh, The Divine Life Society welcomes daily visitors to its ashram on the banks of the Ganga; it professes to embrace the essential truth found in all the religions of the world. Chanting continues 24 hours a day (check the website www.sivanandaonline.org for details). In Bodhgaya, the Root Institute (www.rootinstitute.com) runs 6- to 12-day courses and retreats in Buddhist philosophy and spiritual awakening meant to bring peace and happiness to daily life. You can also attend 1-day workshops and take short courses on topics such as how to meditate, peaceful living and dying, and transforming problems into happiness. Accommodations are available at the institute.

You can also find programs offered by more well-known groups, such as ISKCON (Hare Krishna; www.iskcon.com), Ramakrishna Mission (www.sriramakrishna.org), and Aurobindo Ashram (www.sriaurobindoashram.org) in Puducherry (Pondicherry), as well as gurus with large, worldwide followings such as Sri Mata Amritanansamayi Devi—better know to the world as Amma (or “The Mother” or “The Hugging Guru”)—who has her ashram in Amritapuri in Kerala (www.amritapuri.org).

For a deeper, more authentic experience—spiritually and culturally—Arunachala, the ashram dedicated to the teachings of the late Bhagavan Sri Ramana Maharshi, is 3 hours west of Chennai, in Tiruvannamalai, Tamil Nadu (www.arunachala-ramana.org). Rooms are small, basic, and cheap, but you will have to book 1 month in advance.

Finally, another fairly upmarket ashram, one with a strong following among Westerners, is run by the Siddha Yoga foundation at Ganeshpuri, also near Mumbai (www.siddhayoga.org). Note that this ashram does not encourage casual tourists dropping in; you have to be in touch with their programs to be allowed onto the beautiful walled estate.

A note of caution: Although all the yoga and meditation centers listed here are legitimate, care should be taken before embarking on any spiritual journey in India. (If you don’t believe us, read Gita Mehta’s Karma Cola [Vintage Books], an acerbic and witty investigation into the way in which unscrupulous gurus market Indian spirituality to credulous Westerners in search of something more “enlightened.”) There are some who feel that spiritual teaching should come free, while others argue that spiritualism is being packaged for Westerners in a way they can relate to, and performs basically the same function as a psychotherapist might in the West. Most important: Be aware that literally thousands of gurus and ashrams, “pseudo” or “real,” are spread all over the country, some of whose principal aim is to part you from your money or, in worst-case scenarios, to sexually exploit you. Principally, be suspicious of two things: gurus who claim to have supernatural or magical “powers” or are “miracle workers,” and those who ask for hefty donations. Check credentials and make your choice wisely.

11 Tips on Accommodations

One of the best developments in the past decade has been the increase in luxury boutique-type options offering international standards of service and comfort and flavored with Indian accents—like beautiful craftsmanship and ancient traditions (we’re talking Ayurvedic masseurs on tap)—which means that the subcontinent is now a very desirable destination for the visitor wanting relaxation and pampering. To find the most unusual independent hotels, guesthouses, and homestays, an excellent resource for those who don’t want the classic resort or chain hotel experience is Alastair Sawday’s Special Places to Stay: India (www.sawdays.co.uk), at press time about to go into its third edition. Though the properties listed pay to be in the book, they are all, almost without exception, special in some way; the best are included in this book (plus many more that cannot afford or choose not to pay for publicity).