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By Root 1902 0

conch shells and burning braziers, accompanied by drummers, while children hawk candles for you to light and set adrift. Aside from these must-sees, you should set aside some time to wander the ancient lanes of the Old City, particularly those around Kashi Vishwanath Temple. When you feel the need for peace and solitude, hire a car and visit Sarnath, where Buddha first revealed his Eightfold Path to Nirvana; spend a few hours exploring the archaeological ruins and the modern Buddhist temple and monasteries. Overnight at Ganges View Guesthouse in Varanasi, a lovely, comfortable colonial lodge at the edge of the river or you could move away from the bustle and opt for the classy atmosphere at the newly opened Nadesar Palace. On the afternoon of Day 5, take a flight to Khajuraho. After you check in at your hotel (preferably The Grand Temple View), head off immediately to either the Eastern or Southern Group of temples, with Samson George as your guide.

Day 6: Khajuraho

Khajuraho is known the world over for its beautiful, taboo-breaking erotic sculptures, images that are almost as intimately associated with India as the Taj. But the temples also represent an outstanding synthesis of advanced architecture and refined sculpture. Try to enter as soon as the Western Group of temples opens (sunrise), not only for the light’s quality, but to avoid the busloads of tourists who will arrive later. Take your time admiring the beautifully rendered friezes of gods, nymphs, animals, and energetically twisting bodies locked together in acts of hotblooded passion. Cover the Western, Eastern, and Southern Group (unless you visited them the day before), ending your day at the 50-minute sound-and-light show held at 6:30pm, which provides a fascinating history of Khajuraho.

Day 7: Orchha

From Khajuraho, drive to Orchha, the deserted royal citadel of Raja Rudra Pratap, on a rocky island on the Betwa River. This is one of India’s most fabulous Mughal heritage sites and a wonderfully relaxing stop sandwiched between the intense huckster-heavy destinations of Varanasi/Khajuraho and Agra. Orchha, founded in 1531, was the capital of the Bundela kings until 1738. Today the weathered temples, palaces, and cenotaphs are the royal quarters of emerald parakeets and black-faced langurs, while traditional whitewashed, flat-roofed structures house the laid-back villagers. Besides the palace complex, three beautiful temples are worth seeking out, as well as 14 graceful chhatris (cenotaphs) commemorating the Orchha rulers, built upstream along the riverbank. Though all these can be covered in a day, get the most out of this surreally tranquil haven by spending the night at the Orchha Resort.

Days 8 & 9: Agra

Drive to Jhansi, and take an express train to Agra, home of the Taj Mahal. Besides the exquisite Taj, visit the city of Fatehpur Sikri and the tombs of Itmad-ud-Daulah and Akbar, as well as well-preserved Agra Fort. If you can afford it (and this one is worth saving up for), overnight at the Oberoi’s luxurious Amarvilās, where your room will have a view of the Taj Mahal. Ideally, visit the Taj at dawn and spend the whole morning there. Built by Shah Jahan as an eternal symbol of his love for his favorite wife, Mumtaz Mahal, the Taj has immortalized him as one of the great architectural patrons of the world. Not only does the Taj have perfect symmetry, ethereal luminescence, and wonderful proportions, but every inch of marble is covered in exquisite detail.

Day 10: Jaipur

Drive to Jaipur, where you can explore the City Palace and Amber Fort in a day; you’ll need a little more time if you want to go to Samode Palace, an hour’s drive away. However, no amount of time is enough for the shopping; Jaipur is a bargain-hunter’s haven, where you will find gorgeous Rajasthani crafts for sale that are hard to resist. In Jaipur, overnight at Taj Rambagh Palace (if you prefer an authentic historical experience close to the heart of the city), or Rajvilās (if you enjoy the illusion of being far away from everything, combined with absolute luxury). Alternatively,