India (Frommer's, 4th Edition) - Keith Bain [78]
Day 11: Pushkar
Late in the afternoon, drive from Jaipur to the temple town of Pushkar, stopping en route to view Dargah Sharif, the top attraction of Ajmer along the way. Get your “Pushkar Passport” as early as possible, which will then free you from further harassment by priests. Spend the night on the shores of Pushkar Lake, preferably at Pushkar Palace.
Note: If Pushkar lake is dry (which it has been of late) you might want to consider skipping Pushkar, pausing instead at the small and remote village of Shahpura, where family owned Shahpura Bagh is one of our favorite places to stay in Rajasthan and the mild-mannered village makes a great alternative to the pushy, rather ugly town of Pushkar.
Days 12 & 13: Pushkar & Jodhpur
Start out early to explore Pushkar, a charming (if very filthy, touristy) town surrounding a sacred lake on the eastern edge of the Thar Desert, and an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. Browse the street bazaar, where you can pick up the most gorgeous throwaway gear, great secondhand books, and CDs at bargain prices. Pushkar can be explored entirely on foot—it will take you about 45 minutes to walk around the holy lake and its 52 ghats (stairs). From Pushkar, move on to Jodhpur, where you must set aside half a day to visit fabulous Mehrangarh Fort and Museum, arguably Rajasthan’s most impressive and cleanest fort, with sheer clifflike walls that soar above the city. Situated on another raised outcrop, with sprawling grounds creating a majestic ambience, is Umaid Bhawan Palace, built by Maharaja Umaid Singh as a poverty-relief exercise to aid his drought-stricken subjects. Designed by Henry Lanchester, a great admirer of Lutyens (the man who designed New Delhi), it was started in 1929, took 3,000 laborers 13 years to complete, and remains one of the best examples of Indo-Saracenic Art Deco style. If you don’t mind the splurge, try to spend the night at the Palace (preferably in one of the beautiful Deco-styled historical suites), and catch the setting sun from the edge of the lovely outdoor pool. Breakfast at The Pillars restaurant, where you can enjoy a spellbinding view of the fort in the distance. Move on to the new, sexy Mihir Garh and go for a sunset gallop into the Thar Desert, or relax at the endearing Rawla Narlai or even (if you don’t mind a lengthy detour) Fort Seengh Sagar to overnight.
Days 14 & 15: Udaipur
Enjoy the morning at Migir Garh or Rawla Narlai, then head to Udaipur, stopping at the Ranakpur temples (and, if you’ve left early enough, Kumbhalgarh, overnighting at Aodi) en route. In Udaipur overnight at the fabulous, fabled Lake Palace or any of the recommended accommodations that have a lake view. Time allowing, take a sunset cruise on the lake or enjoy a muscle-tingling treatment in the Taj’s spa boat. The following day, visit the City Palace and Museum in Udaipur. Prime attractions worth pursuing and doable in the time available are the temples at Nathdwara and Eklingji. Or spend the rest of the day lounging around the pool under the shade of its 263-year-old mango tree. If you wish to squeeze in an extra day, do so at Devi Garh, 45 minutes outside Udaipur.
Day 16: Udaipur & Delhi
Enjoy a leisurely morning roaming Udaipur’s lovely bazaars, or relax at the Devi Garh pool, before taking an afternoon flight back to Delhi. If you have space left in your baggage (fat chance!), stop for last-minute souvenirs and gifts before you board your flight home.
2 The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights
The Golden Triangle & Rajasthan Highlights
Though this itinerary includes Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur (the “Golden Triangle”) and captures many of the essential Rajasthan sights, it does not include Jaisalmer, one of Rajasthan’s most wonderful destinations, primarily because it’s not very easy to get to. In a 2-week vacation that also takes in Delhi and Agra, it would be hard (but not impossible) to include Jaisalmer.