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By Root 1908 0

Best to extend your stay in India by a few days if you want to cover this oldest “living” fortified city in Rajasthan. Located in the heart of the Thar Desert on India’s far western border, Jaisalmer has breathtakingly beautiful, crumbling sandstone mansions, though its main attraction, Sonar Killa (Golden Fort), is reason enough to travel this far west, not least because it may not exist in a few years time. Though not as impressive as Jodhpur’s Mehrangarh Fort, Jaisalmer has its unique charm as an inhabited medieval fort. So if you do come to Jaisalmer, plan to spend 2 nights, not least because it takes so long to get to here.

Days 1–3: Delhi

After your long flight and no doubt middle-of-the-night arrival, have a car waiting for you and check in at Delhi’s finest hotel, Aman, at one of the city’s superb midrange guesthouses, Amarya Haveli or Amarya Gardens, or at the best budget accommodations in town, the stylish Master Guest House, which will also arrange an airport transfer (book well in advance). When you feel you’re ready to face the world, take in a few New Delhi sights, including India Gate, built to commemorate those who died in World War I. Walk from Rajpath to Rashtrapati Bhavan, where the president of India lives. After you cover the 12th-century Qutb Minar complex in South Delhi, grab a table at Park Balluchi before browsing the shops in Hauz Khas. After lunch, visit the garden tombs of Humayun and of Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia (the saint Sheikh Nizamuddin Aulia), one of the holiest Muslim sites in India. Time allowing, stop off at Rajghat, the place where Gandhi was cremated in 1948. Of course if you’re here to shop or want to browse, scrap these and head for Dilli Haat, a great place to check out the range of handicrafts you’ll find on your travels through India. Pick one of Delhi’s excellent restaurants for dinner (consider booking a table at the gorgeously designed Véda, or check if Olive Bar and Kitchen has reopened).

Prepare yourself for the chaos of the crowded streets of 17th-century Shahjahanabad, or Old Delhi—just a few kilometers from Connaught Place, it feels a hundred years away, and the pungent smells from the ancient streets are a heady reminder that you are far from home. Still surrounded by crumbling city walls and three surviving gates, the vibrant, bustling Shahjahanabad, built over a period of 10 years by Emperor Shah Jahan, is very much a separate city—predominantly a labyrinth of tiny lanes crowded with rickshaws and lined with havelis (Indian “mansions”), their balustrades broken and once-ornate facades defaced with rusted signs and sprouting satellite dishes. Start with imposing Lal Qila (Red Fort) and Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. If the crowds haven’t left you exhausted, visit Gauri Shankar Temple, Sisganj Gurudwara, and Sunehri and Fatehpuri masjids. The city’s lanes and back lanes are exciting to wander through, especially Chandni Chowk, Khari Baoli (the spice market), and Kinari Bazaar—but do hold on tightly to your belongings.

Days 4 & 5: Shekhawati

Make an early start and drive to the Shekhawati region, the open-air art gallery of Rajasthan. Today there are some 30 “painted towns” in the region, but the most essential to include in a first-time itinerary are Ramgarh, Nawalgarh, Fatehpur, and Mandawa. Mandawa is a quaint town with a number of beautifully painted buildings; it is also centrally located and has the best accommodations in the area. Overnight at Desert Resort as your first choice and then opt for the gracious Castle Mandawa.

Days 6 & 7: Jaipur & Ranthambhore

Drive to the “Pink City” of Jaipur. If possible, book into the wonderful Rajvilās (more resort than hotel), though Jaipur is one city that has a host of pleasant heritage options to suit every budget. If you prefer the authenticity of a real heritage hotel, book a room in the opulent and well-located Rambagh Palace or the more low-key Samode Haveli inside the Old City. Explore the City Palace, including a visit to Hawa Mahal and Jantar Mantar, and then focus on sites farther afield: Amber Fort, first