Iran - Andrew Burke [103]
The chapter starts by the Turkish border. It loops around Lake Orumiyeh to Tabriz, continues through the Azari heartlands to Ardabil and down the Caspian coast via Rasht to Chalus. After Qazvin, Soltaniyeh and Zanjan we consider the central mountains, Kordestan and the historical cities of Kermanshah and Hamadan before descending the former ‘Royal Road’ towards ancient Shush, Shushtar and Choqa Zanbil.
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HIGHLIGHTS
Hike between flower-filled valleys and snowcapped peaks amid the ruined 12th-century Castles of the Assassins
Challenge Iran’s desert image in the paddy fields and forests of Gilan that lead to the delightful stepped village of Masuleh
From Jolfa explore ancient churches, mud-walled castles and grand canyons along the biblical Aras River Valley
Stagger up to Babak Castle, the dramatic emotional heart of Azarbayjan
Venture into Howraman, a magical, rarely visited valley of traditional Kurdish villages
Be awed by lonely Choqa Zanbil’s massive, brick ziggurat which somehow managed to get ‘lost’ for 2500 years
Cross sparsely populated mountainscapes from Zanjan to reach the ruins of Takht-e Soleiman, history’s foremost Zoroastrian temple complex
Potter about between the fairy-chimney homes of Kandovan, Iran’s mini-Cappadocia
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BAZARGAN
0462
Car repair yards, shops and nine cheap hotels line Bazargan’s Imam St, a gun-barrel straight strip fired towards the striking silhouette of Mt Ararat. About 2km short of the immigration posts, the village ends at the outer border gate. Here the taxi/savari stand faces the basic Hotel Jafapoor ( 337 2058; Imam St; dm/tw IR20,000/40,000) whose owner is excited to show off his modest English skills and changes money. Hotel Hamid ( 337 2435; Imam St; tw IR130,000), 300m further east, is somewhat better and has bathrooms with squat toilets.
Locals pay IR10,000 to Maku but taxis ask way more from foreigners.
Ten kilometres along the Bazargan–Maku road, a muddy 2km track leads north towards Sangar past Farhad Dameh, a passingly interesting Urartian cave-dwelling with church-like niches and fine views of Ararat.
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MAKU
0462 / pop 39,600
Boxed into a soaring rocky canyon, central Maku has a handful of minor sights and makes a sensible base for visiting the old Armenian church of Qareh Kalisa. Long a key fortress and citadel guarding the Ottoman-Persian frontier, Maku was one of many Azerbaijani khanates that gained semi-independence in the chaotic period following the death of Nadir Shah in 1749. Although rejoining Iran in 1829, the khanate was only finally abolished a century later.
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CROSSING THE TURKISH BORDER AT BAZARGAN
Travelling solo, crossing here usually takes under an hour. The hill-top immigration posts ( 24hr) are 2km above Bazargan village, IR2000/1000 (plus IR1000 for bags) by shared taxi/minibus. They’re just 600m from Gürbulak in Turkey (no facilities). The nearest Turkish-side accommodation is 40km east in Doğubayazıt famous for its 1784 Işak Paşa palace.
Eastbound from Doğubayazıt to Gürbulak take a dolmuş (minibus; 3YTL, 25 minutes, last 5pm) from the junction of Ağrı and Sehiltik Sts, 100m east of the Karahan Petrol Ofisi station (where Ağrı dolmuşlar wait). That’s about five minutes’ walk from Doğubayazıt’s little bus terminal and cheap hotels. Westbound buses from Doğubayazıt to Erzerum (17YTL, four hours) via Ağrı (5YTL, one hour, 20 minutes) leave at 12.30am, 3pm and 4.30pm.
Arriving in Iran during office hours you’re likely to be welcomed by a charming Iranian tourist officer. The bank within the Iran-side customs building offers full