Iran - Andrew Burke [104]
Well-connected Tabriz guide-fixer Hossein Ravaniyar (www.iranoverland.com; Click here) is experienced at sorting out motorists’ border formality problems.
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Orientation & Information
Shops and all hotels are within 500m of little Chahara Sq on central Imam St. Coffeenet Dade Pardazan (Imam St; internet per hr IR8000; 10am-last customer) is almost opposite the Tourist Inn, 400m west. The bus terminal is 3km southeast.
Sights
The sad, crumbling remnants of Old Maku’s former citadel lead up to the Abu Fazl Mosque and a series of degraded brick fortifications cupped beneath an impressively huge cliff overhang. Fine views justify the sweaty 25-minute hike on steps and footpaths directly north from Chahara Sq.
The celebrated but empty Kola Ferangi is a century-old mansion with filigree wraparound balconies, hidden away in a ruined garden accessed through the unmarked grey gates of a clinic on Taleqani St, just north of Chahara Sq.
The attractive Baqcheh Juq Palace Museum ( 324 3719; admission IR4000; 9am-1pm & 3-5pm Tue-Sun) was originally built for the sardar (military governor) of Qajar Shah Muzaffar al-Din (1896–1907). Eclectically furnished rooms with colourful, quaintly tacky fruit murals are set around a wonderfully over-the-top mirror-tiled atrium. It’s set in a walled orchard at the base of appealing, tree-dappled Baqcheh Juq village whose timeless hay-topped mud houses are backed by a rugged chasm. It’s 2km off the main Bazargan road, about 7km west of Chahara Sq from which yellow savaris charge IR1500.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Alvand ( 322 3491; Imam St; s/tw IR45,000/60,000) Just west of Chahara Sq, the Alvand is the most inviting of Maku’s several cheap offerings. Rooms are well kept and management understands a little English, but the one shower has limited availability and upstairs shared toilets are out of action.
Makoo Tourist Inn (Mehmansara Jahangardi; 322 3212; fax 322 3184; tw/ste US$20/30, winter US$16/24; ) Appealingly quiet, the Tourist Inn is a green three-storey block set well back off Imam St. Despite a little peeling paint the rooms are by far Maku’s classiest option, with hot shower, squat toilet and towels. Decent if haphazard restaurant.
Getting There & Away
From the main terminal buses run to Tehran (IR65,000, three daily), Tabriz (IR12,000, four hours, six daily, last at 1.30pm), and Orumiyeh (IR12,000, 4½ hours), hourly via Khoy (IR8000) and Qareh Ziya’eddin (IR5000). Rare savaris to Bazargan (IR2500) depart from Taleqani St at Chahara Sq.
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AROUND MAKU
To conveniently visit Qareh Kalisa, Chaldoran and Bastam, consider chartering a taxi from Maku then jumping out at Qareh Ziya’eddin for public transport to Khoy.
Qareh Kalisa
Splendid outside, though plain within, Qareh Kalisa (Black Church; admission IR3000; 24hr) is the best maintained of all Iran’s medieval churches. It’s alternatively known as Kalisa-ye Tadi (Church of St Thaddaeus) for St Thaddaeus (aka Tatavoos) who supposedly founded a church here in AD 43. Some say he came with apostle St Bartholomew, others that he was St Bartholomew. Whatever the case, Thaddaeus’ preaching proved a little too successful and the jealous Armenian king reacted by killing him and massacring his 3000 converts in AD 66. In a curious twist, Armenia later became the world’s first Christian nation (AD 301). Thaddaeus’ memory was revived with a chapel built here at his supposed grave in AD 371.
Mostly rebuilt after an earthquake, the smaller black-and-white-striped chapel section dates from 1319–29. The church was much restored and enlarged in 1810 when the main beige-white stone section was added. This is richly carved with saints, angels, kings and crosses, best observed from the chunky fortress-style walls that