Iran - Andrew Burke [106]
The squat, stone-based cube of St Sarkis Church (Kalisa Sorop Serkis; Gumsal Sq) is curious if not especially beautiful, with narrow slit windows suggesting a fortified past. It supposedly dates from the 4th century, though upper brick sections were rebuilt in the 1730s. Notice carved motifs over the western door (usually locked).
The 300-year-old Shams Tabrizi Minaret is unique for being encrusted with protruding animal horns, though many are missing or hanging like deflated old party balloons. Named for a celebrated 13th-century dervish (see boxed text, below), it’s hidden away in unpromising back alleys off 22 Bahman St, a short taxi hop northeast of Gumsal Sq.
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SHAMS TABRIZI
If you find Khomeini-style Islam a little stony faced, don’t be put off. Iran has produced other inspirational Muslim thinkers. One such was dervish-philosopher Shams Tabrizi whose brief relationship (1244–46) with Rumi was arguably as significant to Sufi history as Jesus’ encounter with John the Baptist was to Christianity. Bravely and often with humour Shams was keen to point out that religion is not an end in itself, merely the first step in a personal journey of spiritual discovery. His Khatesevom is generally translated as The Third Line. But The Third Path might be more accurate, echoing the middle way of the Buddha.
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Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Sepid ( 222 4234; Taleqani St; dm/tr IR20,000/60,000) Women will feel out of place in the decent-enough three- and five-bed dorms with shared clean squats. A single shared hot shower is accessed through the central kitchen.
Hotel Amir ( 222 3839; Valiasr St; tr IR63,000) Plants and creepers on upper stairs somewhat humanise this basic crash-pad. One shared squat toilet is designated for women. Traffic noise can be disturbing. It’s halfway between the Orumiyeh terminal and Valiasr Sq.
Khoy Tourist Inn (Mehmansara Jahangardi; 244 0351; fax 244 0352; Enqelab St; s/tw US$23/35) Modern yet cosy, this super-clean place has unusually well equipped rooms including minibar, excellent hot showers and even provides toilet paper. OK restaurant.
Azarbayjan ( 222 9800; kababs IR4000, qalyan IR5000; 8am-9pm) One of three simple kababis (kabab shops) on Shahid Samadzade St (parallel to Shari’ati, one block east), the Azarbayjan has a rather appealing teahouse section upstairs through unmarked rear curtains.
There are several central patisseries (Imam St) and juice bars (Shari’ati St).
Getting There & Away
Tehran–Khoy flights (IR306,000) operate on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday. From 5.15am to 4.30pm Orumiyeh-bound buses (IR7000) leave the Salmas terminal (Taleqani St) with Salmas savaris (IR9000, 45 minutes) departing from across the road. Use the little Tabriz terminal (Nasrolahi Sq), 2km northeast of centre, for Tabriz (bus/savari IR7100/30,000), Marand (savari IR15,000) and Qareh Ziya’eddin (savari IR12,000).
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SALMAS
0443 / pop 75,000
Archaeologists suggest that Gül Tappeh (Ash Hill) once housed one of the world’s first settled civilisations (7th millennium BC). Today the site is a mere muddy mound in a field 5km from Salmas accessed by a 600m-long orchard track off the lane to Keleshan village.
Known to the Medes as Zarvand, Salmas was founded as a bulwark against Babylonian incursions under Assyrian king Salmansar (Shalmanseer) III (r 859–824 BC). Sassanid Persians staked a claim with the Khan Takhti royal inscription carved into a cliff 14km south of the city (facing the Sero turning on the Salmas–Orumiyeh road).
Influenced by Armenia and Caucasian Albania, Salmas