Iran - Andrew Burke [107]
Known as Shahpur under the Pahlavis, central Salmas lost most visible remnants of its history to a massive 1930 earthquake. Today it’s an unremarkable apple- and pumpkin-processing town. Mild curiosities include the 1957 Imam Hassan Mosque with oddly bulbous-shaped brick minarets (visible approaching the bus terminal) and a kitschy giant teapot in Mellat Park (en route to Haftevan).
Hotel Noor ( 524 5070; Imam St; tw IR120,000) has clean, acceptable rooms with shower and toilet above an old-fashioned dining room. Enter beside the pizzeria between Ferdosi and Allah Sqs. No English sign.
Long-distance services plus occasional minibuses to Khoy and Orumiyeh use the terminal (Basij Mustazafin St). However, savaris to Khoy (IR9000, 45 minutes), Tabriz (IR25,000, 2½ hours) and Orumiyeh (IR10,000, one hour) use relevant roundabouts on the new bypass road (kamerbandi) where passengers also jump aboard passing through-buses.
Glimpsed from the Salmas–Tabriz road, Lake Orumiyeh appears like a distant mirage while inland arid mountains blush with minerals. Bypassed Tasuj, hidden amid mud-walled orchards, has an historic Jameh Mosque.
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SERO
Minuscule Sero village has a terrific backdrop of mountains but is mostly handy for its border-crossing towards Van in Turkey. From the border gate, taxis to Orumiyeh (45 minutes) should cost IR10,000/40,000 per person/car but even locals battle with bolshie drivers who want double. Walking away is a risky ruse as the nearest place to get a minibus is 6km east where the scenic, if somewhat degraded road to Salmas branches north via the picturesque upper Gonbadchay Valley, Mingöl and Mamakan.
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CROSSING THE TURKISH BORDER AT SERO
This border post ( 8am-10.30pm, Iran time), called Esendere in Turkey, consists of just a few lonely buildings on a pretty mountain road. Procedures are relatively easy for individuals but it’s wise to cross early to ensure transport connections. Freelance moneychangers offer poor rates for Turkish lira (IR6300) and worse ones for US dollars (IR8000). Get better rates in Orumiyeh or (for euros-dollars) at the bank within the Iran-side customs building. The nearest Turkish-side accommodation is 40km away in Yüksekova. Van Erçiş ( 0438-351 4193) operates a regular Yüksekova–Esendere dolmuş (minibus; YTL5, 45 minutes) till around 6pm: ignore blatantly lying denials of taxi drivers. Vangölü Turizm run Yüksekova–Van buses (YTL10, 3½ hours) approximately hourly passing the magnificent ruins of Hoşap Castle in Güzelsu village (64km before Van). In central Van, Vangölü Turizm ( 0432-216 3073; cnr Maraş & Cumhuriyet Sts) also offers a 9.30am direct bus to Orumiyeh. Turkish time is 1½ hours earlier than Iran’s, half an hour in summer.
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ORUMIYEH
0441 / pop 623,000
Known as Rezayeh during the Pahlavi era, Orumiyeh (Urmia, Urumiyeh) is a logical stop en route to southeastern Turkey. It’s a large, deeply historic city but offers no must-see sights.
History
Bountiful orchards made Orumiyeh the historically prosperous ‘Garden of Persia’. For centuries various Christian groups (Chaldeans, Armenians, Assyrians and Nestorians) lived harmoniously here alongside local Azari Muslims and a thriving Jewish community. However, in the 19th century overzealous Protestant and Catholic foreign missionary activities resulted in a harsh backlash against all non-Muslims. This was initially led by Kurdish groups fearing the possible loss of territory should a Christian-Armenian state be declared. In 1880 the Persian army stormed Orumiyeh to counterattack