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By Root 1637 0

and relatively pleasant en suite rooms off somewhat scrappy corridors. Or walk 400m west to Shahrdari Sq for Mehmanpazir Aseman ( 522 2300; off Shahrdari Sq; tw with/without shower IR60,000/50,000), a bearable if typically male-dominated mosaferkhaneh with shared toilets. It’s marked ‘Asiman Mehmanxanasi’ and accessed via a clothing passaj beside Bank Melli (no exchange). The international-standard Espinas Hotel ( 525 2700; www.espinashotel.com; Rasht Hwy; s/d/ste US$90/110/160; ), 8km south of here, sits beside an attractive mountain-backed lake where you can rent jet skis. That’s 5km beyond the terminal (Imam Khomeini St) with buses to Tehran (IR50,000), Tabriz (IR30,000, six hours, 3pm), Rasht (IR30,000, 10am and 1pm) and Qazvin (IR50,000, 4pm). More frequent through buses plus convenient savaris to Rasht (IR40,000, 2½ hours) and Ardabil (IR15,000, 1½ hours) pick up around massive Laleh (Shohoda Qomran) Sq, 200m further south.

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ASTARA TO RASHT

Between Astara and Rezvanshahr several relatively unspoilt sections of Caspian hinterland offer attractive views of rice paddies (notably at Lavandevil, Khotbeh Sara and Sust). There’s some lovely woodland behind Asalem (change savaris here for Khal Khal). Most accessible of the region’s castle ruins is the cute little Dezhe Sasal Fortress (Qal’eh Lisar; Salsal St), which crowns a petite wooded knoll at the southern end of Lisar town, just five minutes’ walk off the main highway. Its gate arch is intact and offers sea views, though the rest of the site is fenced off.

Little Hashtpar is often referred to as ‘Talesh’, somewhat confusing as Talesh is also the name of the region and its people. Behind Hashtpar’s charioteer statue in the central square is an attractive Qajar-era octagonal pavilion, but since it’s used by revolutionary guards, photography is unwise.

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RASHT

0131 / pop 618,000

Rapidly expanding Rasht is the capital of Gilan province and by far the largest city of the Shomal (Caspian littoral) region. Gilan has had extended periods of independence and the lispy local Gilaki dialect remains noticeably distinct from Farsi, its reversed adjective–noun order causing much amusement for other Iranians.

Although 15km inland, Rasht is a popular weekend and holiday destination for Tehranis, for whom the greatest attraction is its ‘refreshing’ climate (ie lots of rain). It’s mildly amusing to watch local tourists driving with arms outstretched to feel the drops. But year-round downpours and steaming summer humidity don’t otherwise appeal to most foreign tourists.

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CROSSING THE AZERBAIJAN BORDER AT ASTARA

A narrow river divides Astara (Iran) from Astara (Azerbaijan). By Caucasus standards the pedestrian border here is quick and straightforward with neither fees nor bribes to pay. Things are contrastingly slow for vehicles. International Baku–Tehran buses wait between three and seven hours while the whole bus is checked. Visas are not available on arrival. The pedestrian crossing point (Mosaferi Gümrük; 7.30am-noon & 1.30-4.30pm) is easy to miss up a small lane north of Hakim Nezami St. On the Azerbaijan side, the unmarked metal border gate is 500m along Heydar əliyev küçasi from the excellent-value Hotel Şindan.

Freelance moneychangers at the Iran-side border-gate offer passable rates. Get rid of rials here if heading north. Leave bigger exchanges till Ardabil or Rasht if heading south. Near Hotel Şindan on the Azerbaijan side, Kapital Bank has an ATM cash machine.

Confusingly many Azeris count in ‘Shirvans’ rather than New Azeri Manats (AZN, US$1=0.84AZN). One Shirvan means AZN2.

Decrepit night buses to Baku (AZN5) and daytime minivans to Lənkəran (AZN1) start 100m north of Hotel Şindan.

An overnight sleeper train to Baku (AZN2.70, 11 hours) leaves Astara around 7pm, but the station is 3km from the border and tickets often sell out.

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The city has precious little in the way of historical buildings, but Rasht is a useful transport hub from which to visit the lush mountain forests,