Iran - Andrew Burke [130]
History
Historically Lahijan and Fuman were Gilan’s main centres. Rasht (previously Resht) developed in the 14th century, but the population was massacred in 1668 by the forces of Cossack brigand Stepan ‘Stenka’ Razin who also sank Persia’s entire Caspian navy. The Russians, a constant factor in the region thereafter, were back in 1723 clearing spaces in the then-impenetrable forest to allow Resht’s growth. In 1899 a Russian company cut the road to Qazvin, diminishing Gilan’s isolation from the rest of Iran. By WWI the town boasted 60,000 inhabitants and four international consulates. From 1917 it was the centre of Kuchuk Khan’s Jangali (‘Forest’) Movement, an Islamic, Robin Hood–style rebellion. Among their grievances with collapsing Qajar Iran was the shah’s perceived sell-out to oil-hungry Britain. Courting the Bolsheviks who’d just taken control of Russia, Kuchuk Khan joined forces with communist-agitators and, on 4 June 1920, set up Gilan as the ‘Soviet Socialist Republic of Iran’. However, radical-leftists and land-owning Muslim nationalists made very prickly bedfellows. Once Kuchuk Khan had ejected the infidel communists from his ‘government’, his Russian backers slipped away leaving Gilan prey to the efficient new regime of Reza Khan (later Shah Reza Pahlavi) who’d taken over Persia in a February 1921 coup. Reza Khan first dealt with Azadistan (temporarily independent Tabriz/Azarbayjan) then attacked Gilan. Most of Rasht’s pretty wooden houses were burnt, Kuchuk Khan was executed and his severed head was brought to Tehran for public display.
These days any enemy of the Pahlavis has become a friend of the current Islamic Republic. Thus Kuchuk Khan has ridden back into favour on many a horseback statue across Gilan.
Orientation
The three main thoroughfares, Shari’ati St, Sa’di St and Imam Khomeini Blvd, converge at pleasantly palm-filled Shahrdari Sq (maps call it Shohada Sq). Traffic can be nightmarish but budget accommodation is conveniently close. Golsar in the north is comparatively chic and middle class.
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Barg Bookshop ( 222 5718; Sabz Sq; 8.30am-1.30pm & 4-9pm Sat-Thu) Stocks Farsi phrase books and some English-language magazines.
Ta’ati Bookshop ( 222 2627; A’lam-ol Hoda St; 9am-1.30pm & 4-9pm) Sells brilliant city maps (IR10,000).
INTERNET ACCESS
E-Gil ( 323 1306; Namju Blvd; per hr IR6000; 10am-9pm)
Ghamoos Rayane Coffeenet ( 2235970; Passaj Nefis, A’lam-ol Hoda St; per hr IR4500; 9am-9pm Sat-Thu) Fast connection, friendly people but hidden away on the 4th floor (take the lift from the pasazh beside Bank Tejarat).
PM Coffeenet (Taleqani St; per hr IR6000; 10am-9pm) Graffiti-cool interior with separate women’s room.
Soheil (A’lam-ol Hoda St; per hr IR5000; 10am-10pm) Enter from alley behind.
MONEY
Mehrpouya Currency Exchange ( 222 7826; Sa’di Ally; 9am-1.30pm & 4.30-8pm Sat-Thu)
Vase Exchange ( 224 0597; Moravid Close, 1st fl; 9.30am-1.30pm & 5-8pm Sat-Wed, 9.30am-1.30pm Thu) Free chockies while you change money. Good rates.
POST
There’s a central post office on Shahrdari Sq but for parcel service use the main post office (Bentolhoda St) just off Golsar Ave in Golsar.
TELEPHONE
Central telephone office (Shahrdari Sq; 8am-8pm) Domestic calls only.
International telephone office (Taleqani St; 8am-9pm Sat-Thu)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Gilan Miras Ferhangi ( 775 4664; Ehtesab Alley off Sabz Sq; 8am-2pm Sat-Thu) Historic brick building and attractive garden hosts the tourist information office.
TOURS
Hassan Mohit ( 0911 136 7796; www.aryantour.com) This delightfully personable English-speaking driver-guide has a refreshingly easy-going manner. Daily rates range from US$130/50 with/without car. Hassan can provide scrumptious family meals and homestay beds at Titi (‘blossom’) Cottage in the semi-rural village of Ebrahim Sara (25km east of Rasht).
VISA