Iran - Andrew Burke [137]
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Shahlizar Hotel ( 325 0001; fax 323 2090; Azadi Sq, Noshahr; tw IR150,000-250,000; ) Comfortable, cosy rooms have cutesy straw bows decorating their doors. Manager Maziyar speaks some English and is keen to show guests the beautiful views (to mountains and port) from the fifth-floor rooftop (no lift). It’s conveniently positioned right at the heart of Noshahr.
Hotel Malek ( 222 4107; www.hotelmalek.com; Noshahr Blvd; s/d/tr/ste IR180,000/250,000/350,000/ 600,000; ) Stylish rooms have pleasing décor, bathrooms and good-sized double beds. Suites have playful modernist furniture. The outdoor swimming pool operates summer only. The hip restaurant (open noon to 3.30pm and 8pm to 11pm) has a fine menu (in English) ranging from steaks and fish dishes (IR41,000 to IR67,000) to chicken Kiev and mirza ghasemi (IR21,000).
Kourosh Hotel ( 222 3940; fax 222 4174; Noshahr Blvd; tw IR200,000-450,000; ) Across the road from the Malek, rooms here have pine-fresh interiors, there’s a courtyard café, trendy coffee shop, fitness room, sauna and small pool.
Getting There & Around
Iran Aseman ( 322 5217; Karimi St, Noshahr; 7am-4pm) has twice weekly flights to both Tehran (IR195,000) and Mashhad (IR329,000).
To Tehran, buses (IR40,000) and more frequent savaris (IR60,000) leave from a small terminal on the Karaj road, 1.5km south of Mo’allem Sq. Savaris to Kelardasht (IR10,000, one hour) leave from an adjacent yard. Eastbound minibuses/savaris to Nur (IR2200/5000) and Amol (IR6500/20,000) start a block east of Azadi Sq in Noshahr. Westbound minibuses to Ramsar, Lahijan and Rasht use an inconvenient terminal off Chalus’ southwestern bypass. Shuttle taxis (IR1000) drive here from Mo’allem Sq. Shuttle taxis from Mo’allem Sq to Jameh Mosque Sq, Noshahr (IR1500, 15 minutes) operate until late evening.
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AROUND CHALUS
Namak Abrud
For extraordinary Caspian views take the long Namak Abrud cable car (telecabine; 0192-246 2012; admission IR50,000; 10am-3pm), up 1050m Mt Medovin. The ropeway station is 2km off the main Rasht highway, 14km west of Chalus. Dress up warmly and expect the unexpected from notoriously antisocial clouds.
Kelardasht
0192 / pop 23,100
Cupped between towering, broad-shouldered peaks, Kelardasht is nicknamed the ‘Paradise of Iran’. It’s probably the most popular Caspian-area getaway for nature-loving Tehranis. Surrounding areas offer trout fishing, cross-country skiing, trekking, mountain climbing and plenty of cool fresh summer air. The mountain panorama approaching Kelardasht from Marzanabad is particularly impressive with several spectacular views of snow-toothed Alam Kuh soaring behind the town. At Kaleno an 11km part-paved road leads up to much-vaunted Valasht Mountain Lake.
Kelardasht’s commercial centre is Hasankeif where most of the shops, banks and an internet café are clustered close to Hasankeif Sq. More traditional Rudbarak starts around 5km south of Hasankeif. It’s closer to the mountains and the starting point for most hikes, though with fewer direct views. Here, amid the holiday homes, you can still find a few old log-framed barns and houses with slate or wood-slat roofs anchored down with rocks.
ACTIVITIES
The Alborz offers climbers a selection of 4000m peaks, including Alam Kuh (Mt Alam), which at 4850m is Iran’s third tallest and most technical. An 800m near-vertical granite wall makes the mountain’s north face a special challenge for climbers, though there are much easier alternative routes to the top. Ascents start 20km from Rudbarak. Before