Iran - Andrew Burke [138]
For Alam Kuh it takes at least a day to trek to one of two base-camp huts. Hesarchal offers the easier summit approach. For the wall use the climbers’ hut at Sarchal (3900m) and continue to a cwm called Alamchal (4150m). Climbing the wall itself is a very serious undertaking even for highly experienced mountaineers.
From Sarchal it’s also possible to climb Mt Takht-e Soleiman, at the other end of the main knife-edge ridge, but there’s a lot of bolder-jumping on the glacier and plenty of slippery scree. NB: this is the peak that Freya Stark wandered up almost by mistake in her book Castles of the Assassins. However, it is not the Takht-e Soleiman citadel near Takab.
SLEEPING & EATING
Hotel Azarbayjan ( 262 2678; Mahestan 3rd lane off Nasiri St, Hasankeif; tr IR200,000-450,000) Cheap by Kelardasht standards, this overgrown homestay is just 500m from Hasankeif Sq via Modarres St (fork left then right). Rooms have gas stove, fridge, bathroom and three squeezed-in beds. Those with sitting rooms cost IR100,000 extra. The communal dining terrace is good for meeting other guests.
Hotel Park Chaman ( 264 3159; Park Chaman, Rudbarak; small/big ste IR250,000/500,000, bungalows IR500,000) Almost 7km from Hasankeif Sq, 700m before the Mountaineering Federation, look for the obvious blue-roofed modernist restaurant across the river. While not entirely tasteful, the suites are well-equipped with bathtub, choice of toilets and a balcony (no mountain views). The peaceful location is a good starting point for hikes.
Maral Hotel ( 262 6726; Pasdaran Blvd; ste IR400,000-800,000) Full-blown suites are comfortable though oddly the kitchenettes are much bigger than the cramped bathrooms. A big new extension should soon offer swimming pool, Jacuzzi and billiard room. It’s 1.3km south of Hasankeif Sq.
Arash Restaurant ( 262 8312; Hasankeif Sq; meals IR25,000-55,000; 11am-3.30pm & 7.30-10pm) Bright, clean pine-ceilinged restaurant offering Iranian and Caspian favourites right on Hasankeif Sq.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
Rare savaris to Abbasabad (IR10,000, one hour) take an attractive forest lane and depart from Hasankeif Sq near Melli Bank. Savaris to Chalus (IR10,000, one hour) and Tehran (back/front IR60,000/80,000, 3½ hours) and Karaj (IR50,000/70,000, 2¾ hours) leave from a stand 400m north of the square. Buses (IR30,000, five hours) to Tehran’s west terminal leave from the tiny Rahat Safar/Talayi Safar office in Zibardast, 3km east of Hasankeif departing at 8am and 2pm in either direction.
Transport within Kelardasht usually requires chartering a taxi ( 262 9191; per hr IR50,000).
Karaj–Chalus Road
Were it not for the terrifying traffic, this fabulously scenic trans-Alborz road would easily justify a visit to Chalus/Noshahr. Unlike the Haraz (Amol–Tehran) road, landscapes are beautiful almost immediately. Soaring surrounding peaks remain snow-topped late into the season and as you slither inexorably down through steep-cut forest valleys the engineering feat of the road’s construction remains striking. However, stopping en route can be perilous and, especially in icy conditions, it’s hard to focus on the scenery given the suicidal driving style of the speeding maniacs. On a few key holidays the road becomes one-way, which can mess up your plans. Massive engineering works currently deface some of the upper sections and a new expressway will eventually bypass the southern half of the road via an entirely different route. If driving, consider the contrastingly quiet side trip to Baladeh.
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KARAJ
0191 / pop 2,594,000
When the Shah’s sister had Frank Lloyd Wright design her a spiral-roofed palace here (1966), Karaj was a peaceful escape from Tehran. Today