Iran - Andrew Burke [178]
Mosaferkhaneh-ye Haram (Haramnema Lane; r per person IR50,000) There’s no English spoken, no English sign, and the rooms and shared bathrooms are uberbasic. But it’s the cheapest in town and the welcome is warm. Popular with families, it’s a reasonable choice for lone women travellers. Guests can use the utilitarian kitchen.
Etminan Hotel ( 660 9640; cnr Haramnema Lane & Imam Musa Sadr Blvd; s/d IR150,000/190,000) Some of the small but functional rooms with bright-pink squat bathrooms offer fine views of the holy shrine, and double-glazing keeps most of the noise out. There’s a kitchen, and hefty discounts are possible.
Negin Hotel ( 663 0246; neginhotel2006@yahoo.com; Haramnema Lane; s/d/tr IR120,000/150,000/200,000; ) The Negin is a step up from its neighbours and fair value.
Aria Hotel ( 774 8450; Astane Sq; s/tw/apt IR150,000/200,000/500,000; ) With its front-row spot overlooking Astane Sq, the Aria’s rooms, some with six beds, are good value, especially in low season. Popular with Arab pilgrims.
Safa Apartment Hotel ( 773 2499; Mo’allem St; r US$49-80; ) It’s busy, but the rooms are tired – and when we visited, staff seemed tired of seeing so many guests. Head here only if Ghasr is full. Don’t confuse this with the budget Safa on Imam Musa Sadr Blvd.
Ghasr Apartment Hotel ( 783 1151; fax 783 1154; Mo’allem St; ste/apt with breakfast US$50/94; ) This new, modern-styled hotel has good-sized rooms and facilities at fair prices. Double beds are available; apartments have two bedrooms.
Eating
The dining in Qom is about as diverse as the range of faiths: standard Iranian cuisine with felafel to meet the Arab-pilgrim demand. Not surprisingly, most of the independent eateries are lined up along busy Mar’ashi Najafi St, opposite the shrine and square, and include kababis (kabab shops), pizza and barbecued chicken joints, drink shops and a couple of restaurants.
Qom is famous for sohun, a sinfully delicious pistachio-and-ginger brittle, which is often sold in attractive tin boxes and makes a good gift.
Restaurant Bihan ( 774 3433; Mar’ashi Najafi St; meals IR35,000; 11am-3pm & 6.30-11pm) Of the options along this strip the Bihan is consistently good, with tasty kababs and large serves of zereshk polo ba morgh (chicken and rice with barberries).
Getting There & Away
Transport to Qom is packed on Fridays and on any religious holiday.
BUS, MINIBUS & SAVARI
Qom’s main bus terminal is actually a huge roundabout in the north of town called Haftdad Sq. Touts pester potential passengers here as they wait for the dozens of buses passing through en route to or from Tehran. Buses to Tehran (IR10,000, 1½ to two hours) stop several times an hour. Southbound services to major destinations are frequent, including Esfahan (IR20,000/30,000, five to six hours), Kermanshah (IR22,500/50,000, seven to eight hours), Yazd (IR22,500/35,000, eight hours) and Shiraz (IR35,000/65,000, 11 to 14 hours). Competition for seats can be positively unholy.
For Kashan, minibuses (IR7000, two hours) leave the Terminal-e Kashan at the eastern end of Enqelab St roughly every hour, or pick up a big bus (IR10,000, 1½ hours), at Haftdad Sq.
Savaris to Tehran and Kashan leave from Haftdad Sq and, more conveniently, from the end of the Ahanchi Bridge opposite the holy shrine.
TRAIN
Trains run from Qom train station ( 441 7151) to Tehran (2nd class IR4250, 2½ hours) a couple of times a day, but most people opt for a bus.
Getting Around
Most sights are easily reached on foot. To get to or from Haftdad Sq or Terminal-e Kashan, ask for a shuttle taxi (approximately IR1500) near the Ahanchi Bridge or go to the corner of Imam Khomeini Blvd and Hadaf St.
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KASHAN
0361 / pop 320,000 / elev 935m
Kashan and its surrounds have been home to human settlements since at least the 4th millennium BC. However, much of what is known of Kashan’s history is interwoven with legend (see A Sting in the Tail, opposite). What is certain