Iran - Andrew Burke [179]
Shah Abbas I was so enamoured with this delightful oasis city on the edge of the Dasht-e Kavir that he insisted on being buried here rather than in Esfahan. Much of Kashan was destroyed by an earthquake in 1779 but the subsequent Qajar period saw building on a lavish scale. The most notable survivors are the fine covered bazaar and several meticulously restored mansions that have become synonymous with the city. The bazaar is deceptively large and has an enchantingly lethargic atmosphere that serves as the perfect counterfoil to the frantic bustle of Tehran and the sightseeing intensity of Esfahan.
* * *
A STING IN THE TAIL
While there is no written history of Kashan before the Seljuk period, there is an entertaining oral history. One story has the Bible’s ‘Three Wise Men’ setting out from Kashan to pay their respects to the newborn Christ, an event that is distinctly possible given the ‘Wise Men’ were magis (Zoroastrian priests), hence the ‘Adoration of the Magi’. Nearby Saveh also claims the three.
Another legend tells of Abu Musa al-Ashari’s novel method of taking the city during the Arab invasion of the 7th century AD. When the Arab general found the city’s walls impregnable, he ordered his men to gather (somehow?) thousands of scorpions from the surrounding deserts. Armed with these stingers, he attacked the city by having them thrown over the walls. According to the tale the poor Kashanis, who could never have expected an attack of such diabolical genius, soon capitulated.
* * *
Accommodation options might be limited and the populace very conservative, but you’ll still need a very good excuse for skipping Kashan – it just might be one of the unexpected highlights of your trip.
Orientation
The centre of town is Kamal-ol-Molk Sq, from where most sites can be reached on foot. For sites along the northeast–southwest main road to Fin Gardens (variously known as Fin Rd and Amir Kabir Rd), you will need a take a taxi or take a bus. The bus terminal is located about 2.5km northeast of the centre but most buses stop instead at Valiasr Sq.
Information
Amir Kabir Exchange ( 444 0616; Mir Ahmad St; 8am-2pm Sat-Thu) Short hours but no paperwork.
Bank Tejarat (Ayatollah Kashani St) Changes money…slowly.
Central City Cafenet (Shahid Mohammad Ali-ye-Raja’i St; per hr IR10,000; 8am-10pm)
Milad Hospital (Dr Beheshti St) Try here first.
Police ( 110)
Safar Doostan Travel Agency ( 445 7040; Ayatollah Kashani St; 8.30am-8pm Sat-Thu)
Sepanta Coffeenet (Ayatollah Kashani St; per hr IR10,000; 2-9pm Sat-Thu) Run by helpful women; popular with young Kashanis. It’s unsigned, downstairs in a green-tiled building.
Telephone office (Abazar St; 8am-2pm & 4-9pm Sat-Thu, 10am-1pm Fri) International calls at the usual rates.
TOURS
Kashan is full of driver-guides looking to take you to Abyaneh (usually about IR150,000), Abyaneh and Natanz (IR200,000), or those two and on to Esfahan (IR250,000).
Ahmad Pourseyedi ( 533 0321, 0913 264 3012; ahmad_pourseyedi@yahoo.com) ‘Charming old rogue’ Ahmad’s septuagenarian legs have seen better days and his history is sometimes awry, but he’s delightful company as he recalls anecdotes while driving sedately around the Kashani hinterlands.
Cheap Taxi Reza ( 444 9581, 0913 361 1136) Reza Shoghi is a nice guy, a safe driver and has enough English.
Mahdi Galekhah ( 0913 261 3530; mgalekhah@yahoo.com) Works in historical houses, generous and engaging.
Mohammad Fatehi ( 0913 363 1796; mr_fatehi2006@yahoo.com) Easygoing, very knowledgeable and reliable. Also works in historical houses.
Sights
Bazaar
Kashan’s bazaar ( Sat-Thu) is one of the most enjoyable in Iran. Busy but not hectic, traditional but with a wide variety of goods, large enough to surprise but not to get lost in, it is a great place to wander for a couple of hours, especially before lunch and in the late afternoon. The multidomed roof