Iran - Andrew Burke [180]
The best way to appreciate the extent of the bazaar is to climb to its roof. There are tiny staircases throughout and it’s fun to ask a bazari (bazaar shopkeeper) to lead you up. If that doesn’t work, head to the magnificent Timche-ye Amin al Dowleh, a high dome with lavish interior mouldings completed in 1868. Beneath the dome, in a square dominated by carpet shops, ask the guys at the Chaykhaneh Caravan Sara to show you to the roof (they might ask for a payment, but not if you eat there). You can climb all the way to the top of the dome, from where the views over the brown town and bulbous roofscape of the bazaar are inspired. Look for the just-dyed wool drying in the sun.
Traditional Houses
Hiding behind the high mud-brick walls of Kashan are hundreds of once-grand traditional houses. Built during the 19th century, most have long-since been carved up or are literally turning to dust, but several have been restored and, mercifully for the city, the idea is catching. Those that can be visited are monuments to the importance of Kashan as a Qajar-era commercial hub, embellished with fine stucco panels, ostentatious stained glass and lofty badgirs (windtowers), all set around a series of interlinked courtyards.
Khan-e Ameriha
The oldest of Kashan’s restored houses, Khan-e Ameriha (Alavi St; admission IR3000; 8am-sunset) is also the most impressive. It was built at the end of the 18th century when Agha Ameri decided his father’s house wasn’t nearly big enough for one of the country’s wealthiest men and needed a little extension. Ameri was Kashan’s governor and made his money supplying the shah with war material and providing security along the trade route between Tehran and Kerman. By the time work finished, his was the largest home in Persia, encompassing a staggering seven courtyards over 9000 sq metres.
All this, however, was fast returning to dust by the time restoration work began in 1999. So far more than €2 million has been spent, and one by one the courtyards and surrounding buildings are returning to their extravagant best. Highlights include the two hammams (bathhouses), one of which was built specifically for local pregnant women, and the naghib (mask room), which leads to a secret escape tunnel. To see it, get chummy with the attendants…and ask to be let onto the roof.
Parts of the home should have been open as a top-end traditional hotel in the next few years.
Khan-e Tabatabei
Built around 1880 by wealthy carpet merchant Seyyed Ja’far Tabatabei, the Khan-e Tabatabei ( 422 0032; off Alavi St; admission IR3000; 8am-sunset) is renowned for its intricate stone reliefs, fine stucco and wonderful mirror and stained-glass work; photographers will love it. Larger than the Borujerdi house, it covers 4730 sq metres, has 40 rooms and more than 200 doors. It consists of three sections: the andaruni (internal area), where family members lived; the biruni (external area), used for entertaining guests; and the khadameh (servants’ quarters). They are set around four courtyards, the largest of which boasts a fountain pool. From mid-afternoon (depending on the month), sunlight and stained glass combine to bathe some rooms in brilliant colour.
To get here, walk south past the Khan-e Borujerdi towards the blue conical tower of the Imamzadeh-ye Sultan Mir Ahmad, turn right and the entrance is on the left. There is a handicraft shop selling locally made silks, but the more alluring courtyard teahouse has been closed down.
Khan-e Borujerdi
Legend has it that when Sayyed Jafar Natanzi, a merchant known as Borujerdi, met Sayyed Jafar Tabatabei to discuss taking his daughter’s hand in marriage, Agha Tabatabei set one condition: his daughter must be able to live in a home at least as lovely as his own. The result – finished some 18 years later – was the Khan-e Borujerdi (off