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By Root 1859 0

district, the colourful, painstakingly restored traditional house and the chilled, interesting and arty female owners set a paradoxically modern-yet-traditional Iranian tone. For pure facilities the 10 rooms are overpriced – bathrooms are outside and there are few modern luxuries – but what you’re paying for is the ambience. Children under 14 are not allowed. It’s hard to find: from Qeyam Sq, walk southwest towards the tall minaret at the Ali Mosque, take the alley about 10m along on the left, follow this around to the left, take the first right and right again, into a tunnel-like passage. The door is unsigned inside this passage, on the right. Prices are €10 less in low season.

Isfahan Traditional Hotel (Hotel Sonnati Isfahan; Map; 223 6677, 0913 305 1556; www.isfahanhotel.com; Bagh-e Ghalandarhra Alley, off Hakim St; s/d/ste with breakfast €32/45/160; ) Deep in the Bazar-e Bozorg area, this attractive traditional hotel is set around two courtyards in adjoining Safavid- and Qajar-period homes. The 16 rooms are spacious, comfortable and most have attached modern bathrooms. The stunning royal suite would make a memorable splurge. The service, however, was very raw when we stayed. It’s about 75m east of the entrance to the Hakim Mosque.

Sadaf Hotel (Map; 220 2988; Hafez St; s/d US$63/90; ) A super location near Imam Sq, professional management and impressive rooms with satellite TV and fridge make this an excellent choice. The rooftop restaurant is delightful in summer. Discounts are available in the low season. Family rooms available.

The following are ‘solid’ fall-back options: clean, comfortable enough, fair value but largely devoid of character.

Julfa Hotel (Map; 624 4441; www.julfahotel.com; Hakim Nezami St; s/d US$28/43; ) A few metres from Vank Cathedral, with 72 small rooms and unhelpful service. Khangostar Restaurant is downstairs.

Pardis Apartment Hotel (Map; 220 0308; fax 222 7831; Takhti Junction; apt from US$50; ) No frills apartments in two- to five-bed (US$77) varieties. Discounts very possible; good, cheap food in the restaurant.

Safir Hotel (Map; 222 2640; www.safirhotel.com; Shahid Medani St; s/d/ste US$63/87/95; ) Professionally run place popular with businesspeople. Central location, several languages, tired rooms.

TOP END

There are surprisingly few top-end options in Esfahan considering it is such a tourist drawcard, so it’s worth booking ahead.

Kowsar International Hotel (Map; 624 0230-39; www.hotelkowsar.com; Mellat Blvd; tw/d US$108/$158; ) Portraits of Ayatollahs Khomeini and Khamenei on the wall confirm this one-time Sheraton is now government owned. Mercifully, however, professional management, a recent facelift, exceptional restaurants and facilities, including wi-fi and a kids playground, have transformed it from state-run disappointment to quality luxury hotel. Ask for a 5th- or 6th-floor front room.

Abbasi Hotel (Map; 222 6010; www.abbasihotel.com; Shahid Medani St; s/d from US$110/165; ) In the remains of a 17th-century caravanserai, the Abbasi has a reputation as one of the best hotels in Iran. Reputations, however, can be misleading. While the central garden courtyard is sublime, most of the rooms are plain (neither luxurious nor historic looking), the service can leave you feeling more like a sheep than a shah, and the prices are double what Iranians pay. If you do stay, ‘special’ rooms (US$179) are in the original building and have garden views. Anything cheaper is in the drab ‘new wing’.

Eating

Esfahan has its fair share of good restaurants and some memorable teahouses, but if it’s culinary variety you seek, then prepare for disappointment. Most places listed here are walking distance from the hotels, though it’s also worth venturing to relatively relaxed Jolfa one night. Most midrange and top-end hotels have restaurants, and remember that most teahouses (opposite) also serve food.

Esfahan’s famous speciality is gaz, a delicious nougat usually mixed with chopped pistachios or other nuts. It’s available pretty much everywhere, but especially in confectionery shops along