Iran - Andrew Burke [199]
RESTAURANTS
Mikhak Restaurant (Map; 222 3291; meals IR15,000-50,000; noon-4pm Sat-Thu) Just off the northeast end of the bazaar, the Mikhak serves quality Iranian comfort food that seems to comfort half of the bazaris every day. Vegetarians should look elsewhere.
Aboozar Restaurant (Map; 222 0654; Bazar-e Bozorg; meals IR20,000-35,000; 11am-3pm) The rest of the bazaris seem to come here for fast, cheap and tasty meals. Arrive early or the best food will be gone.
Restoran-e Sa’di (Map; 222 0237; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; meals IR20,000-35,000; 10.30am-11pm) Down the mirrored staircase opposite Amir Kabir Hostel, this place is a classic lower middle-class Esfahani restaurant, with a cheapish, not that stylish, small menu with only half the dishes available.
Nobahar Restaurant (Map; 221 0800; Chahar Bagh Abbasi St; meals IR25,000-45,000; 11am-3pm & 6-10pm) Nobahar Restaurant has been around forever because it serves reliably good, reasonably priced staples like kababs and zereshk polo ba morgh. It’s not stylish and service isn’t great, but that’s not what you’re here for.
Sadaf Hotel (Map; 220 2988; Hafez St; meals IR35,000; dinner only for rooftop) The Sadaf Hotel’s restaurant is especially recommended between June and October when you can eat on the rooftop. The food, including steak with mushroom sauce (IR30,000), and the usual range of tasty kababs, is consistently good and complements the rooftop views (when you stand up) across the Old City. It opens indoors during the rest of the year.
Arabo (Map; 624 7119; Kelisa St, Jolfa; meals IR30,000-45,000; noon-4pm & 6-11pm) This popular underground pizza joint–cum-café offers heavily made-up, crimson-clad waitresses and pizza that’s tasty despite the usual Iranian-pizza limitations.
Sofreh Khaneh Sonnati (Traditional Banquet Hall; Map; 221 9068; Imam Sq; meals IR25,000-50,000; noon-3pm & 7-10.30pm) Just off Imam Sq, this restaurant uses stained glass, colourful tiles and takhts (day beds) to create a Qajar-era (if slightly touristy) ambience. The food makes it memorable, with Esfahani biryani and khoresht-e bademjan (aubergine or eggplant stew) some of the well-prepared and reasonably priced recommendations. To find it, walk out the square north of Lotfollah Mosque, turn left, left again, and up the stairs.
Khorshid (Map; 624 7536; Khorshid St, Jolfa; meals IR40,000; 6.30-11.30pm) This modern Iranian place appeals to upwardly mobile young Esfahanis with its relaxed atmosphere and reasonably priced Iranian food.
Khangostar Restaurant (Map; 627 8989; Hakim Nezami St, Jolfa; meals IR60,000; noon-3.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm) Located in Julfa Hotel, Khangostar Restaurant offers probably the best food in Esfahan – locals, our own experience and overwhelmingly positive reader feedback can attest to this. Servings are enormous here, (even by Iranian standards!) and the menu large and varied, but mainly Iranian. It’s busy rather than romantic, and the salad and dessert bars might seem a bit Sizzler, but hey, you won’t complain when you get there.
Bastani Restaurant (Map; 220 0374; Imam Sq; meals IR45,000-80,000; 11.30am-4.30pm & 6.30-10.30pm) In the shadow of the Imam Mosque, the Bastani is the best-located restaurant in Esfahan. That, however, is where the compliments end. In recent years the quality of the food has been less consistent. Which is a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes. If you do eat here, the billing can be confusing so check it carefully. It’s a pity, as the menu is full of interesting-sounding dishes and it used to be good. Hopefully it will pick up.
Restaurant Shahrzad (Map; 220 4490; Abbas Abad St; meals IR50,000-70,000; 11.30am-10.30pm) The opulent Qajar-style wall-paintings, stained-glass windows and mirror work contribute to the Shahrzad’s reputation as the best restaurant in Esfahan. And on a good night, it’s excellent – strip lights notwithstanding. Too often, however, it’s packed with tour groups and the service (and food) feels factory produced.
Restoran-e Khayyam (Map; Nazar St, Jolfa; meals