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Iran - Andrew Burke [213]

By Root 1870 0
5790-92; Farhang Alley, off Imam Khomeini Ave; s/d IR220,000/300,000; ) Deep in the Old City, this unpretentious little place has comfortable and fair-value if not-exactly-inspiring rooms. A restaurant is attached.

If the others are full (or you need the parking), the following two oldies are cheap but uninspiring.

Aria Hotel ( 626 0411; 10 Farvardin St; r IR80,000-150,000; ) Overpriced rooms, some without bathroom, around a courtyard. Communal kitchen. No English is spoken.

Beheshty Hotel ( 626 5517; Imam Khomeini St; s/tw/tr IR60,000/80,000/110,000; ) Simple, clean rooms. Only the triple has attached bathroom. Secure parking for overlanders.

MIDRANGE

All of the following are traditional hotels in renovated or converted homes in Yazd’s old city.

Soroush Guesthouse ( 626 5159; off Basij Ave; s/tw/tr US$27/38/50; ) The attractive-looking Soroush has rooms on two levels around a sunken courtyard, though for size, cleanliness and value they are not fantastic; try others first.

Orient Hotel ( 626 7783; orient_hotel@gmail.com; 6th Alley, off Masjed-e Jameh St; s/d/tr with breakfast €20/30/40; ) From the same owners as the Silk Road Hotel, the Orient is set around two high-sided courtyards and is a more family-oriented place. The convivial service, comfortable rooms, unbeatable location beside the Masjed-e Jameh and rooftop Marco Polo Restaurant (opposite) make this a top choice. Discounts possible.

Malek-o Tojjar ( 622 4060; www.malek-o-tojar.com; Panjeh-ali Bazar, Qeyam St; dm US$5, s US$20-25, tw US$35-40, tr US$45-60, f US$75; ) Down a narrow, lamp-lit passage from the Panjeh-ali Bazar is Yazd’s original traditional hotel, where you’ll soon be lying around drinking tea, eating fine food and feeling transported to a different time. This Qajar-era home was converted, not completely renovated, which means everything is original. Rooms are cobbled together from odd spaces connected by low doorways and steep stairways, bathrooms are tiny and plumbing can be inconsistent. Still, the atmosphere, delicious food (see right) and homely service make it a good choice. There’s also a fine dorm, though it can be cold in winter. Coming from Qeyam St, look for the sign and small doorway on the left.

Yazd Traditional Hotel ( 622 8500-09; www.yazdhotel.com; Amir Chakhmaq Sq; s/d/tr/f US$50/70/85/100; ) At the top of the midrange, this 215-year-old mansion was recently restored and is run by enthusiastic young Yazdis who deliver above-average service. The 24 attractive rooms retain their odd shapes, stained glass and low doorways, and there’s even a sauna and two small Jacuzzis, to be used one-sex-at-a-time, of course.

Mehr Traditional Hotel ( 622 7400; www.mehr hotel.ir; Labe Khandaq Alley, off Qeyam St; s/d/tr/ste with breakfast US$35/50/70/95; ) The 250-year-old Khan-e Zargar-e Yazdi has been lovingly restored and converted and is an excellent traditional choice. Signposted from Qeyam St, the rooms here are bigger and better equipped than some, the food is delicious, service responsive and rooftop views expansive.

Moshir Caravanserai Yazd Hotel ( 622 7050-54; www.caravanseraihotel.com; Imamzadeh-ye Ja’far Blvd; tw/ste IR600,000/1,000,000; ) This Moshir, not to be confused with the Mamalak Moshir, is a good choice deep in the Old City. The 22 mid-sized rooms are set around a two-storey restored caravanserai. It has a welcoming feel, and big low-season discounts make it particularly worthwhile.

Dad Hotel ( 622 9444; www.hoteldadint.com; 214 Favardin St; s/d US$30/60, ste US$100-120; ) Dad is not named for anyone’s father, though as the brainchild of an 84-year-old patriarch it could be called ‘great granddad’. The 54 spacious, modern and well-equipped rooms are reasonably stylish, though there is not much natural light and, well, they don’t feel as real as the genuinely old places. Still, they’re good value, especially when you can take a dip in the sparkling underground pool (women AM, men PM).

TOP END

Jumping on the khan-e sonnati bandwagon are these two faux-traditional places, purpose built as hotels.

Hotel Mamalak Moshir

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